The origin of Polki diamonds go back to the Mughal era. Sometime in the 17th century, royal goldsmiths in Rajput courts first introduced the art of Jadau Polki. Jadau , meaning to embed, is a technique used to set gemstones without any prongs. In this gemstone setting method, when rough diamonds with unfaceted and unpolished surfaces are embedded in a gold foil, it is called Polki jewellery.

Polki jewellery gained prominence as it spread from the Rajput royal courts in Bikaner and Jaipur to the Mughal court in Delhi. The gold, diamonds, intricate designs, and skilled craftsmanship symbolised wealth and aristocracy. Kings, Queens, and nobility began wearing Polki jewellery as a status symbol. 

Polki jewellery requires a high level of skill and expertise to craft. The traditional art, which originated in the Indo-Gangetic plains during the Mughal era, has been passed down through generations. While the crafting techniques are similar to Kundan jewellery, their construction is slightly different. 

The artisans follow different types of polki settings while crafting Polki jewels. The first style of setting is called Badroom Polki. In this setting the Polkis are arranged in a tulle or jaali pattern with 24K gold. Another type of setting is the Takkar Polki setting, which entails lining up embedded Polkis closely, from edge to edge without using any metal packing. There is also the Jadau setting, where Polkis are placed in molten gold that solidifies around them. In the Kundan setting, gold foils encircle Polkis. Lastly, there is the Basra pearl setting. This setting uses real basra pearls along with the Polki diamonds.

There are also Closed Polki and Open Polki. Closed Polki is the traditional way of setting, in which the gemstones are set quite close with little metal visible between them. On the other hand, the Open Polki Jewellery has more visible spaces between the stones, allowing more light to enter and reflect on the surface of the Polki diamonds. It also uses modern techniques, takes less time to craft, and is more affordable.

In all these settings, the method or process remains the same. First, the design is conceptualised and finalised. Next, the Chiterias or mould specialists make the framework in 22-karat gold. Once the mould is ready, the Ghaarias engrave the mould with traditional motifs. Next, the Meenakar applies colourful enamel to the piece. Finally, the jewellery mould goes to the Jadia or setter, who sets the uncut Polkis using 24-karat gold. The entire process is time-consuming, and it can take months to craft a single Polki necklace, bangle or earrings. 

Polki was the name applied to India’s traditional uncut diamonds, where the cutter stayed close to the natural form of the stone. Today, with innovations, Polkis are faceted lightly to resemble modern-cut diamonds, such as round brilliants, cushions, and princess cuts. These laser-cut Polkis are more proportionate, polished, and brilliant. They are even set alongside other precious stones like rubies, sapphires, and emeralds. 

Polki is the answer for buyers looking for jewellery with deep roots in India’s history and culture. Royalty and nobility in the Mughal era wore aristocratic Polki bangles, earrings, rings and necklaces, symbolising wealth and status. 

As the enamelled motifs carry a meaning, Polki jewellery is termed auspicious and hence worn at weddings and festivals. Polki jewellery is also the perfect heirloom piece. From Aad necklaces to jhumkas, Bridal Polki jewellery is a perennial favourite of new-age brides. 

From royal heirlooms to contemporary glam, the versatile Polki jewellery has gained a prominent place, especially in Indian bridal adornment. While natural, uncut and inclusion-free Polkis are still the first choice of jewellery designers, treated Polkis are also available now. 

During India’s colonial period, the Mughal Polki jewellery incorporated European designs, motifs and techniques. Further, imitation versions of the original Polki earrings, bangles, necklaces etc., are available at lower costs. 

These typically use glass, cubic zirconia, synthetic gemstones and alloy metal. 

Polki jewellery has undergone mechanical and technical improvisations. Even after 2500 years since its beginning, Polki masterpieces continue to impress the gemmaphiles!