Polki Rings

Women in ancient Egypt started to wear a metal ring on the ring finger, believing the vein called vena amoris, meaning the vein of love, ran directly from the tip of that finger to the heart. Also, since the circular shape of the rings reflected the shape of the sun and moon, embodying eternity, the ring became an integral piece of jewellery in almost every culture. In ancient India, rings were a part of the Indus Valley Civilisation, which lasted from 3300 BCE to 1300 BCE. Indus women wore rings for social, cultural and religious purposes. But, it was only much later, during the Mughal era that Indian jewellery gained recognition. Royal goldsmiths at the Bikaner palace in Jaipur made gold rings, earrings, necklaces, bangles, bajubandhs and buttons. While crafting these exquisite gold ornaments for royalty, they discovered the art of including mined gemstones in jewellery. Thereafter, diamonds found their way into royal jewels. Amongst the then-prevailing insignia rings and carved cameo rings, Polki rings shone brightly. In the beginning, every Polki ring was made with newly mined diamonds and no other precious stones. During much of the 17th century, as Mughal rulers encouraged Indian culture, diamond jewellery became a status symbol for royalty. They recognised the art of the Polki and soon adopted and improvised it in the royal courts of Delhi. The meaning of Polki lies in its heritage as one of the oldest forms of diamond jewellery, embodying tradition and luxury. From the Maharaja and his Maharani in Rajasthan to the Badshah and his Begum in Delhi, every Rajput and Mughal elite began to wear beautiful Polki rings. As the Mughal Empire flourished, it led to further patronage of diamond jewellery. Polki rings evolved over the next few centuries to incorporate other gems such as rubies, pearls, and emeralds. Polki rings also introduced beautiful Meenakari (enamel) work on them. Soon, more members of the Rajput and Sultanate nobility and wealthy families adopted Polki jewellery as a sign of prosperity. Polki rings, with rubies and emeralds, even began to complement Hindu and Muslim bridal attire. But from 1857 to the late 19th century, after the Mughal era was formally dissolved by the British, generations of Polki artisans though not very active, kept the art alive. Later, when jewellery designers began reviving the ancient art form with modern designs, Polki rings once again gained popularity from bridal wear to daily wear. The incorporation of traditional techniques such as Jadau added an extra dimension to the timeless beauty of Polki jewellery. Today, exquisite Polki rings are available in Gujarat, Odisha, and Hyderabad. Polki rings typically use three grades of Polki. The best quality, called Syndicate Polki, is mostly sourced through De Beers. The next grade, called Zimbabwean Polki, comes from the mines in Zimbabwe, Africa. The lowest grade is called Khilwas Polki or Kilwas Polki. Polki is not a technique of jewellery making but refers to uncut or raw diamonds. A Polki is a cleaved diamond set in gold and backed with a gold foil to reflect light. Polki diamonds, also known as Mughal cuts, are one of the oldest forms of cut diamonds, originating in India. Polki or uncut diamonds are stones that do not undergo additional faceting and fine finishing. As these Polki diamonds are not treated physically or chemically, they continue to maintain their natural shape, giving a rough and rustic appearance. Furthermore, Polki diamonds are not faceted or shaved to have geometric faces like polished diamonds and hence have one flat side and one pointed side.

How to Style a Polki Ring

The key to styling your Polki ring is to balance it with other jewellery. Though a small ornament, the Polki ring does get its fair share of attention, and styling it correctly, depending on the occasion and outfit, enhances the overall look. Whether you make a statement with it or keep it understated, it always takes your dressing to the next level. 

As a bride and the belle of the ball, go bold with an heirloom Polki ring or a haath phool in vibrant colours and detailed motifs. You can even consider stacking Polki rings with the wedding attire to intensify the glam quotient. Further, don’t forget to add a pop of colour to your red wedding lehenga. A traditional Polki ring with diamonds and emeralds can give a contrasting look. Contrast or complement, ensure you maintain the same theme with the remaining necklaces, earrings and bangles.

As Polki rings mark cultural significance they are the perfect choice to wear at festivals. Invest in comfortable Polki rings to light a diya or burst firecrackers. Choose brightly enamelled Polki rings to celebrate festivals and accessorise other pieces accordingly. While you can wear a large-size Polki ring on Diwali, Eid and Dussehra, opt for a smaller Polki ring for a casual outing. Select a lightweight contemporary ring to pair with small Polki earrings and a delicate Polki pendant. Keep the overall look simple and minimalistic. Polki rings adorned with pastel-coloured stones are a go-to for casual dressing. Another popular trend is mixing different metals for a chic look.