Polki Bracelets

The Greeks first coined the word brachile, meaning of the arm. Later, it evolved in Latin as bracchiale and in old French as bracel. While the history of bracelets is as old as 500 BCE and spread across continents, Polki bracelets found their way into Indian gold jewellery during the Mughal dynasty. From 1526 to 1761, Polki bracelets embarked on a journey of exquisite detailing and precise designs to adorn the delicate wrists of princely women. Polki bracelets reflect India’s rich history and culture. These masterpieces make a valuable addition to any fine jewellery collection. Polki bracelets are predominantly gold bracelets that contain Polki diamonds. The meaning of Polki, is derived from the Hindi word Polak, meaning uncut diamonds. A Polki diamond, also called the diamond of the Mughals, was first set in a gold ornament by the jewellery makers in the royal court of Bikaner, Jaipur. In 1585, when Emperor Akbar’s son Diniyal married the daughter of Raja Rai Singh of Bikaner, the art form spread to Delhi and other regions of the Mughal kingdom. It was perfected and popularised by the Mughals, the connoisseurs of jewellery and architecture. It was during this era that Indian-mined diamonds became wearable objects. As the Rajput and Mughal royals believed Polkis bring good fortune and protect them against evil, they adorned themselves in Polki jewellery from head to toe. To create a Polki, the diamond cutter splits or cleaves the eight-sided diamond along the cleavage planes, which are its areas of natural weakness. A Polki diamond is a raw, uncut, unfaceted and unpolished diamond. Its soft and subtle lustre is described as softly glowing like the moon. Syndicate, Zimbabwe, and Kilwas are the three types of Polkis. Amongst them, Syndicate Polki is the best in colour and quality. Then comes the Zimbabwean Polki from Africa, which is lower in quality. Kilwas or Khilwas Polkis are typically low quality, leaning more towards greyish and brownish tinge with more inclusions. As the Polki diamond is often brown or yellow in its natural state and contains some inclusions, a filler gold foil is added to the base to improve its colour and lustre. Polki bracelets are set in intricate designs using gold and gold foil and embellished with other precious gemstones like rubies, emeralds, and sapphires. They also showcase elaborate patterns and motifs in vibrant Meenakari colours. While traditional Polki bracelets with vintage appeal have become heirloom pieces, modern Polki bracelets are valued for their nouveau style, uniqueness, and intricate craftsmanship. The incorporation of traditional techniques such as Jadau added an extra dimension to the timeless beauty of Polki jewellery. Polki bracelets come in myriad designs, depending on the setting method and embellishments. Firstly, the most popular is the Kundan Polki Bracelet. A winner at weddings, these bracelets feature Polki diamonds typically encased in pure gold and set in an intricate framework. They also have delicate enamel work that gives the bracelet a regal look. The Polki Bangle bracelet is another kind of bracelet, which is typically an openable bangle. It can be round or oval in shape and broad or delicate in width. There is also the contemporary Polki Charm bracelet. Popular with young women, these bracelets have a chain adorned with customisable Polki diamond charms. They combine modern design sensibilities with a touch of Indian tradition. The Polki Cuff bracelet is a broad, inflexible, openable ornament wrapped around the wrist. These cuffs, set in a symmetrical pattern with intricate filigree work, are perfect for weddings and special occasions. The Hath Phool bracelet or hand harness is a bridal ornament. The soft bracelet attaches to rings with decorative chains or pearls. Then there is the Polki Open bracelet that is adjustable to different wrist sizes. These fluid and flexible bracelets may be broad or delicate, featuring Polki diamonds with other gemstones. Some of these use a drawstring to adjust to the wrist size. They are versatile and ideal for both casual and formal occasions. Polki Link bracelets have Polkis on delicate gold links forming a flexible bracelet. Finally, there are the Big Polki bracelets with large-sized Polki diamonds and the Pearl Polki bracelets that use pearls along with the Polkis. Whatever the kind of Polki bracelet, each is unique and timeless.

How to Style a Polki Bracelet

Polki bracelets offer endless styling possibilities. For brides-to-be in North India, a Polki bracelet is a must-have accessory with matching Polki necklaces, jhumkhas, maang tikka, and nose rings. It not only lends a ceremonial and glamorous bridal look but also brings her good fortune. While styling a Polki bracelet, ensure it matches the other accessories in terms of the base metal and gemstone colours.

While styling a Kundan Polki bracelet with fine enamelling, you can pair it with an outfit in similar colours or contrasting colours. Also, since the Kundan Polki bracelet is elaborate, avoid large prints and busy dress designs. On the other hand, while styling a broad and intricate Polki Cuff bracelet, make it a statement piece while keeping other accessories minimal. Cuff Bracelets look great with Western attire or a fusion look. If the cuff has only Polki diamonds, you can wear it with an aqua, red or any brightly coloured pantsuit, but if the cuff has mixed gemstones, then wear it with a solid colour like black or white for a contemporary chic look.