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In many cultures like the Middle East, South and Central America, Central Asia and Australia, piercing the nose is a ritual for coming of age. In the 16th century, when the Mughals from Central Asia established themselves in India, they introduced the practice of wearing naths or nose rings. Around the same time, the Rajputs in the court of Bikaner first discovered the art of setting diamonds in ornaments. The Polki nose ring, with the Polki choker, jhumkhas, and bangles, found its place among royal jewels. A Polki nose ring is an ornament that captivates and enhances beauty. Soon, the art spread to Delhi and other parts of India. Apart from the Rajput Maharanis, even the Mughal Begums began to wear Polki nose rings. As nose rings represented marriage or the union of two people, they soon became a part of the wedding regalia. Today, a nose ring in India is as symbolic as a woman’s chudi, mangalsutra , or bindi. It can be a stud, hoop, Bali or non-piercing type.
Polki nose rings, like Polki rings, earrings, and necklaces, feature a variety of motifs. Today, even though traditional motifs have been reinvented for modern jewellery connoisseurs, they continue to reflect the rich cultural heritage and artistic craftsmanship of a bygone Mughal era.
Traditional motifs have historical connections, taking inspiration from the Mughal era. Floral motifs have adorned Polki nose rings, transcending time and trends. The meaning of polki symbolises love, life, beauty, fertility, spirituality and culture. There is also the rose motif, which expresses love, and the Brahma kamal (lotus), the symbol of purity. These motifs, combined with leaves, symbolise hope, renewal and growth. Another motif frequently used in traditional Indian nose rings is the motif associated with paisley or bootar. Its typical shape was also called the teardrop or the tadpole. Sometimes, this motif represents a mango or cashew fruit, signifying life and fertility. From Polki chokers and earrings to Polki nose rings, these delicately hand-engraved paisley motifs are believed to ward off evils. Representing grace, beauty, wealth and pride, the peacock motif is equally popular in traditional Polki nose rings. The motif in vibrant enamel work also signifies immunity against evil. According to ancient mythology, since a peacock's flesh did not decay immediately after fatality, this motif represents immortality and resurrection. Last but not least, traditional Polki nose rings commonly represent the celestial sun and moon. The sun motif signified vitality and divinity, and the moon motif embodied serenity and introspection. They are considered auspicious and often interlinked together as day and night or masculine and feminine energies. Another important traditional jewellery-making technique associated with Polki nose rings is Jadau. The intricate Jadau work involves embedding stones into gold using age-old traditional methods, symbolising luxury, heritage, and timeless elegance.
Contemporary motifs, on the other hand, have a sleek and modern style. They came into being sometime in the 1960s during India’s progressive art movement. During that time, jewellery designers and jewellery manufacturers began to look at the nose ring as an accessory of self-expression rather than a ritual ornament. Traditional intricate motifs were replaced by minimalist geometric shapes such as lines, triangles, squares, rectangles, polygons, ellipses, and circles. As women began to step out of their homes to work and shop, there was a need for a sleek and elegant nose ring. Hence, simple geometric shapes like the round shape signifying unity and infinity and the square shape implying the material world and cosmic order came into being in contemporary nose rings. Similarly, motifs with straight lines and angles symbolise structure and order, while motifs with curves represent connection. Contemporary nose rings often incorporate abstract motifs with their non-traditional symbolism techniques. In the latter half of the 19th century, as jewellery artisans and designers searched for new aesthetics without fussiness, they incorporated abstract motifs that blended traditional forms and elements with modern artistry to convey a mood or idea. While floral patterns continue to remain in contemporary designs, they have become more minimalist or abstract in shape. Floral motifs are not just appealing to the eye, but they symbolise romance and relationships, growth and life. Also, the famous Kairi, Ambi or mango motif underwent a revival in the 1960s. Reduced details and an experimental Meenakari colour palette with pastels, neons and monochromatic schemes differentiated them from traditional paisley motifs used in Polki nose rings. Modern paisleys are more simplified or stylised in form. Lastly, modern Polki nose rings may feature symbolic motifs such as hearts and initials of the wearer in modern asymmetric form.
While contemporary motifs focus on simplicity and versatility, traditional motifs are characterised by cultural and historical significance. Motifs are seen as both accent and focal points in Polki nose rings. The resurgence in Meenakari enamelling infused with inspiration takes the humble nose ring to creative heights. Besides the above traditional or contemporary motifs, some other elements define a Polki nose ring. The primary element is the uncut, unpolished and unprocessed Polki diamonds. Next is the Kundan Polki technique used to set the Polkis, which involves placing a gold or silver foil at the base of the stone. Also, traditionally, Polki nose rings made of pure gold are heavier. They contain fine Meenakari (enamelling), precious gemstones and pearls. All these elements combine to differentiate a timeless Polki nose ring from other nose rings.
Traditionally, Indian brides wore nose rings. It was also considered a sign of marital status. Polki nose rings with attached pearls or chains mark a style statement. Recently, the nose ring has moved beyond the bridal trousseau. Other wedding guests also wear beautiful Polki nose rings to complement their ethnic look. A Polki nose ring looks good when worn on several occasions, from weddings to festivals and formal functions. You can wear a Polki nose pin or nose ring to festivals like Diwali, Dussehra, Karva Chauth, Navratri and Eid. Whether you choose a nose pin or nose ring will depend on the outfit you are wearing and the look you want to achieve. While nose pins are small and understated, Polki nose rings can be more elaborate. So, choose one to go with the shape of your face and occasion.
A Polki nose ring is the perfect accessory for cultural and religious ceremonies. You can wear a Polki nose ring while attending a classical dance recital or visiting the temple for a pooja. Polki nose rings, being the oldest form of Indian nose rings, bring you closer to your heritage. Polki nose rings in gold or imitation fill up modern jewellery boxes. They are worn at parties to celebrate birthdays, anniversaries, and baby showers. They also add an ethnic touch when worn at family get-togethers or housewarming parties.
At present, Polki nose studs and nose rings are trending. They are so versatile that you can wear them to a formal occasion like a gala or a networking event. They can be styled on a saree or a formal suit, making you stand out. Polki nose rings are even challenging conventional notions by walking down fashion ramps. Star celebrities are wearing Polki nose rings, Polki earrings and Polki necklaces on-screen and off-screen, in photo shoots, and while attending prestigious Television and Cine Awards. The Polki nose stud and Polki nose ring are the perfect accessory for every occasion.
Styling a Polki nose ring involves balancing traditional elegance with modern fashion sensibilities. Since every nose ring highlights your facial features, you must choose the right one to make a fashion statement. While you can wear it daily or on special occasions, there are some things to remember while styling a Polki nose ring. Firstly, when your Polki nose ring is elaborate, keep the accessories simple. Also, coordinate the metals, motifs, and colour combinations with your other Polki Jewellery such as Polki earrings, Polki necklace, Polki bangles, etc.
Next, while a Polki nose ring looks good in Indian attire, you can wear it as a statement accessory on a Western or fusion outfit. If the Indo-Western outfit is a monochrome colour, you can opt for an elaborate, intricate and colourful nose ring. If you want to wear a nose ring to work, go for a tiny Polki stud surrounded by brilliant rounds to balance the look. An eye-catching Polki nose ring is an attention grabber. Whether a stud, Bali, or a large hoop with chains, the right Polki nose ring will elevate your style seamlessly.
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