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Polki Necklaces
The inexplicable Polki necklace perfectly blends traditional aesthetics and modern fashion sensibilities. Until the discovery of diamonds in South Africa in 1896, India was the primary source of mined diamonds. During that period, gold artisans from Bikaner first introduced diamonds in their pure form to gold jewellery, calling it Polki jewellery. Soon, the art spread from the royal courts of Rajasthan and Gujarat to the royal courts of Delhi. The Mughal dynasty karigaars, further fine-tuned the art by adding intricate designs and alluring enamel work to every piece. Between the early 16th to the mid-18th century, Polki jewellery garnered attention and spread to other regions of India. Every Mughal emperor, from Babur to Bahadur Shah Zafar, wore Polki-embedded turban ornaments to Polki armcuffs, Polki neck pieces, Polki bajubandhs, and more. Soon, Mughal Begums, Rajput Maharanis and other nobility began to wear dazzling Polki necklaces, kamarbandhs, earrings and rings. Polki is one of the oldest forms of diamonds, originating in India. It is practically an uncut diamond, intrinsically mined and used in its natural form without any physical or chemical treatment. The diamond is embedded in gold jewellery in its most natural form—uncut, unfaceted, and unpolished. A Polki diamond is only cleaved to follow the original structure of the stone, making every piece unique. Also, since Polki diamond maintains its natural shape and inclusions, the formation of the jewellery is very different from other traditional jewellery types. In Gujarat, the Polki diamond, known for its subtle sparkle, is called Vilandi. The meaning of Polki necklaces embodies craftsmanship and the rich cultural heritage of India. The Polki necklace uses uncut Polki diamonds with intricate designs, giving it a classic look. The Polki necklace sits on the collarbone or comes in various lengths, falling slightly below the chest. On the other hand, a Polki diamond choker is a contemporary take on the traditional Polki necklace. This modern piece of jewellery, fitted on the neck, blends perfectly with Indian bridal attire and Western wear. Most brides on their wedding day combine a Polki choker with different-length Polki necklaces. For a more colourful yet classic look, the multi-gemstone Polki necklace or choker mingles Polki diamonds with coloured gemstones. There is also the Polki Jadau necklace that has a tight-knit pattern with embedded Polkis, and the Polki Kundan necklace that has 24-carat gold foil on the base of the Polki diamonds. An heirloom Polki necklace enhanced with precious stones and pearls presented to a bride is believed to grant her good fortune. Besides these individual Polki necklaces and chokers, there are also Polki jewellery sets. The Polki jewellery set will have a Polki choker, a Polki long necklace, Polki bangles, Polki earrings, Polki maang tikka and a Polki nose ring to make any bride feel like an Indian princess.
Diving into the Design
Iconic Polki necklaces have journeyed through India’s jewellery legacy. While traditional and modern Polki necklaces both use uncut diamonds, there are a few differences between them. Firstly, traditional Polki necklaces worn by nobility had uncut diamonds set in pure gold. But in recent years, with the advent of imitation jewellery, Polki necklaces are made from metals other than gold. Gold plating is used on silver metal and alloys to make it appear like real gold at much lower price points. The craftsmanship, too, has changed. While skilled artisans finely handcrafted each Polki necklace, taking up to 3-4 months to make, today, the same generations of karigaars have innovated and used modern manufacturing methods. Modern Polki necklaces are neither time-consuming, intricate, nor complex.
Similarly, post-independence, with a resurgence in traditional Indian jewellery, the basic designs have changed. For one, heavy Polki necklaces have made way for much lighter daily wear designs. Additionally, more contemporary motifs and shapes have replaced the traditional floral, animal, bird and spiritual figurine motifs on Jadau Polki and Polki Kundan necklaces. Traditional symbols like Om and Swastika are getting replaced by more modern geometric shapes like circles, squares and triangles. Despite these changes, Polki necklaces are timeless. From plain to colourful, minimalist to maximalist, detachable to reversible, they have appealed to all sensibilities. , it is ready to be sold!
You can tell a grand Polki Sathlada or a Polki Haar from a mile. The raw beauty of natural diamonds has lured jewellery connoisseurs to curate their collections with Polki necklaces. Also, some elements or features, such as the type of diamonds, pearls, patterns, and designs, are typical of a Polki necklace. Firstly, there is no authentic Polki necklace without unfaceted and unpolished Polki diamonds. The beauty of a Polki necklace lies in the selection of the uncut Polki. Depending on the design and cost, it can range from filling Kilwas to non-filling Kilwas Polki, Zimbabwe Polki, Syndicate Polki, LB (Lightly Black) Polki, LC (Lightly Cream) Polki, and CVD (chemical Vapor Deposition) Polki.
Another common feature of the traditional Polki necklace is the base of pure gold metal. Until the discovery of cheaper metal bases, Polki necklaces only used pure gold. It is only in the last few years that artificial Polki necklaces came into being. They used silver, copper, brass and alloy to make Polki jewellery more affordable. Polki necklaces also have another common feature, which is the age-old craftsmanship. Generations of skilled artisans have been creating Polki necklaces with traditional motifs, intricate patterns and elaborate designs, making each Polki necklace a visual treat. Besides these features, Polki necklaces may even incorporate coloured precious stones like emeralds and rubies, multi-hued Meenakari or enamel work, pearls and adjustable closures.
Modern-day Polki necklaces are practical yet traditional. They are versatile and sometimes multi-purpose. Though an authentic Polki necklace maybe expensive, it is worth the investment.
Occasions
Indian fine jewellery designers are modernising Polki necklaces. While Polki necklaces have won the title of Most Preferred Wedding Necklaces, they are also suitable for other occasions like festivals and functions. The aesthetic beauty of a Polki necklace can add bling to any bridal ensemble. It also holds cultural significance. Sometimes, an heirloom Polki necklace is worn as a blessing from the elders in the family. Whether you wear a statement Polki neckpiece or dress in a confluence of Polki necklaces, you will outshine everyone on your big day. Polki necklaces look good on the bride, family members and guests attending the wedding.
If you dress in traditional attire to celebrate a festival, a Polki necklace is a must-have. It pairs with Indian ethnic outfits and fusion wear. Also, multi-coloured Kundan Polki necklaces with pearls add bling to the festival spirit. Diwali, Dussehra or Eid, you can look trendy and traditional with a Polki necklace. Similarly, a Polki necklace in neutral colours with a subtle sparkle is the perfect accessory to wear on formal occasions. Whether meeting the heads of state or speaking at a conference, choose the right shape and size Polki necklace to complement your formal look, add elegance and boost your confidence.
A Polki necklace represents Indian culture and its rich heritage. You can wear your favourite Polki necklace while walking around an Indian art nouveau exhibit, enjoying a concert, or even attending a dance recital. With its traditional and ethnic look, a Polki necklace becomes the perfect accessory for a cultural show. Also, fashioned correctly, you can wear a Polki necklace at informal occasions like birthday parties, anniversary dinners, and family get-togethers. Let your Polki necklace become your style statement!
How to Style a Polki Necklace
Though typically a Polki necklace crafted in a tone of gold pairs beautifully with Indian couture and fusion wear, the first step is to understand the occasion or event. For instance, a heavily embellished Polki necklace looks good on a bride or while attending a wedding but not at a formal event. So, choose a heavy or light Polki necklace, a white or multi-coloured Polki necklace, depending on the occasion. While you can wear a Polki necklace to practically any occasion, here is how to style it correctly.
While styling your bridal trousseau, select intricate and large designs studded with precious gems like rubies and emeralds to dazzle on your big day. You can layer one or more long Polki necklaces with a Polki choker for a royal bridal look. Complete the look by adding Polki bangles, earrings, rings and maang tikka. Also, while styling a Polki necklace, choose your piece based on the outfit style, colours and patterns. For instance, complement a solid single-tone outfit with colourful Polki or enhance a heavily patterned outfit with white coloured Polki. Depending on the outfit, whether Indian, Western or fusion, try to create a balance to get the perfect look.
Gold Polki necklaces have a magnificent allure about them. While gold is the most preferred metal for Polki, sometimes it is set in silver or platinum. The metal type can define the overall look and also plays a significant role in determining the final price of the necklace. Today, cheaper versions are available in gold-plated. So, choose gold, silver, platinum or gold-plated, depending on your budget. Remember, a Polki necklace looks good at formal and informal occasions, and on ethnic and fusion wear, so identify your personal preference and style before investing in a Polki necklace. A chunky Polki necklace enjoys the status of wearable art. It is the perfect choice for any occasion. Veteran designers like Sabyasachi, Anita Dongre and Sunita Shekhawat have framed Polki to create exquisite necklaces for the bridal canvas. Uber chic Polki necklaces with modern design intervention and sustainability are taking the tradition of Polki to the next level. Today, the versatile Polki necklace has become a style statement and status symbol. From walking seven circles around a ceremonial fire to walking the fashion ramp, the Polki necklace is everywhere!
Image Credits
Pinterest | Anita Dongre | Wed About | Wedmegood | Zevar by Geeta | Etsy | Paisley Pop