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Polki Bangles
Polki bangles are a masterpiece of traditional design and contemporary luxury. Today, every top jewellery designer is pushing the boundaries of design and innovation, creating Polki bangles to honour India’s rich heritage. In the ever-evolving landscape, Polki bangles encapsulate contemporary significance, style and sophistication. For Indian brides, Polki bangles with matching Polki necklaces, earrings, rings, naths, matha patti and haath phools enrich their wedding wardrobes. The meaning of Polki is rooted in the rich cultural and historical heritage of India. Approximately 5000 years ago, during the Indus Valley civilisation, India began to mine gold and manufacture jewellery. According to belief, as gold jewellery absorbs positive energy and holds it for much longer, women began to adorn themselves with well-engineered jewellery ranging from gold beads to gold bangles. Later, in the mid-1600s, during the Mughal dynasty when diamond mining thrived in the Panna and Golconda regions of India, gold artisans from Bikaner in Jaipur, for the first time, discovered the art of cutting and setting diamonds in jewellery. These cut diamonds were called Polkis. The term Polki is derived from the Hindi word Polka, which means open-backed. Polki is a natural diamond that is uncut, unfaceted, and unpolished. It is only cleaved and retains the original rough shape and structure. Also, like modern diamonds, Polki diamonds do not undergo a lengthy manufacturing process that involves several stages of laser cutting and polishing. These diamonds are in their raw form without any physical or chemical treatment. Thus, no two Polki diamonds are identical. Polki diamonds are literally cut diamonds that exude an old-world charm. Polkis were also called the Mughal cuts or Vilandis. While these diamonds have no particular facet arrangement, they usually exhibit a large top surface area. They even have an irregular and asymmetrical form, as the diamond cutter works to maximise the size without minimising the flaws or inclusions. Because of this method of cutting and cleaving, these Vilandis give off much softer light compared to the shine and sparkle of modern brilliant rounds. Authentic Polki bangles essentially use Polkis set in gold. Each Polki is carefully selected for its unique brilliance and arranged according to its shape and size. The three ways to set Polki diamonds in gold are - Jadau, Badroom and Takkar. Jadau, derived from the Sanskrit word jad, means to be embedded. In this type of setting, the Polki diamonds have a silver or gold foiling on the back to reflect light. In the Badroom setting, the Polki diamonds are placed on a hexagonal mesh-like or jaali structure resembling tulle fabric. Here, the Polkis are closely packed with 24-karat gold, allowing for more intricate designs. This technique allows light to pass through multiple angles, giving the Polkis a beautiful lustre. In the Takkar setting, the large uncut embedded Polki diamonds are slightly cut and shaped to similar sizes. Then, they are arranged from edge to edge without any metal packing. Each of these settings requires a different skill set, which is meticulous and time-consuming. A hand-crafted Polki bangle can take anywhere from a few days to a few months, depending on the intricacy of the design. During the Mughal dynasty that ruled India from 1526 to 1857, the art of jewellery-making dramatically improved. Besides Polkis, other precious gemstones like diamonds, sapphires, emeralds, rubies, and carnelians were embedded in gold metal. Even the art of enamelling reached new heights. Polki handcuffs and bangles became the jewellery of Maharajas and their Maharanis, Badshahs and their Begums, and other nobility. As these bangles gained status symbol, rich women across the country wanted to own a pair of Polki bangles. Now, much after the decline of the Mughal Empire, Indian jewellery designers, manufacturers, and exporters have worked relentlessly to revive Polki jewellery. Polki bangles have evolved from royal heirloom pieces to wearable contemporary art.
Diving into the Design
Polki bangles are the latest trend in fine jewellery. Bollywood actresses, OTT artists and well-known celebrities have further helped to boost their popularity. While traditional designs continue to inspire, renewed interest, knowledge, and cultural conditioning have influenced women of all ages to invest in contemporary gold Polki bangles.
Traditional Polki bangles are timeless. Family-owned Polki kangans have been passed down from one generation to another. Originally made from gold, they hold immense value. Also, they typically mirror the Mughal look with floral or animal motifs and multi-hued enamel or Meenakari work. In the 19th century, when European cutting techniques reached Indian cutters, Polki bangles continued with their nostalgic appeal but transitioned to embrace modern trends.
Polki bangles have common elements or features. Firstly, all Polki bangles contain Polki diamonds. Further, all Polki bangles are made from gold, have gemstone accents, feature colourful enamel and filigree work, and display motifs in intricate patterns. While these common features distinguish them from other bangles, there are also some differences between traditional and modern Polki bangles. They are in terms of the metals used, stones embedded, motifs engraved, type of Meenakari, and overall structure.
Traditional Polki bangles typically use gold, whereas modern-day Polki bangles have other metals, such as silver and platinum. Also, earlier Polki diamonds used only gold foil, but now modern Polkis may be embedded in silver foil for better lustre. Real Polki bangles have precious stones like rubies, emeralds and sapphires. Some designs may also hold natural pearls, particularly Basra pearls or pearls from the Persian Gulf region. Today, modern-day Polki bangles use Russian emeralds, morganites and amethysts. There is also a huge demand for imitation Polki bangles made from brass, copper, and alloy, using moissanite, cubic zircons, rhinestones, or other synthetic gemstones, which are more affordable and easily accessible.
Another differentiator is the motifs. Traditional Polki bangles have engraved motifs inspired by flowers, animals, mythology and cultural symbols. In contrast, modern Polki bangles feature more abstract and geometric motifs. Similarly, in traditional Polki bangles, the Meenakari or enamelling work has powdered glass or finely crushed gemstones. The Meenakar fills the engraved or etched motif designs with vibrant colours before firing it. On the other hand, modern Polki bangles may have Meenakari work that uses synthetic enamel powders, acrylics or even epoxy resins. Lastly, consider the structure or weight of the Polki bangles. While traditionally, bridal bangles were solid gold, chunky, heavy and maximalist, today, Polki bangles use lac filling to make them lighter and more practical for regular use. In addition to the above, the basic method of manufacturing Polkis has changed. While traditional Polkis are cleaved by hand, modern Polkis are laser-sawed into slices and then polished or lightly faceted by a machine.
Occasions
A favourite of fine jewellery connoisseurs, Polki bangles are the perfect accessory for Indian, Western, and fusion fashion. While they are considered wedding trousseau must-haves, they equally elevate any look. Polki bangles with uncut diamonds, precious stones, intricate craftsmanship, and colourful Meenakari work are resplendent of an era that has carved India’s golden history.
Polki bangles represent the oldest form of traditional jewellery. Every bride aspires to own a Polki bangle. Rajput brides prefer to match Polki bangles with their stiff Aad necklaces, while brides from Delhi, Punjab and neighbouring areas wear Polki bangles with heavy chokers, layered necklaces, jhumkas, and maang tikkas. Polki bangles are perennial favourites with the bride's family, friends and guests attending the flamboyant Indian wedding. Today, Polki bangles have crossed the oceans to be a part of NRI bridal trousseaus.
Polki bangles whisper beauty and elegance. They are often worn at festivals as they hold significant cultural and traditional values. Whether dressing up in a saree, salwar kameez, lehenga, or Anarkali to celebrate Diwali, Dussehra or Eid, a beautiful Polki bangle can complete the festive look. Go for vibrant-coloured Polki bangles with intricate patterns and dazzling embellishments to add a touch of sparkle. Polki bangles are also often worn on special occasions and celebrations like birthday parties, anniversary celebrations, housewarming parties, and family get-togethers. You can wear a single-line Polki bangle to keep it simple or choose a contemporary design. Since Polki bangles stand out by adding a regal charm, style them correctly to elevate your party mood. Lastly, traditional Polki bangles are the perfect fit for cultural and religious events. You can wear traditional Polki bangles with intricate Mughal motifs to show your support for the ancient art form. These bangles look perfect at dance performances and temple aartis as they showcase heritage and tradition.
In contrast, traditional ornate jewellery might look out of place in the corporate environment, but smaller items such as ear studs, cocktail rings, and cuffs make their presence felt at official events. You can wear contemporary Polki bangles with sleek lines and geometric motifs to work and formal functions. These bangles lend subtle elegance and sophistication to tradition and exude professionalism and class. Make a powerful statement with a minimalist look.
How to Style Polki Bangles
Styling Polki bangles involves pairing them thoughtfully. For the wedding Solah sringar or everyday use, Polki bangles, from heavy and traditional to dainty and delicate, can create a cohesive look when styled correctly. While investing in Polki bangles, consider the outfit you plan to wear. The more intricately designed colourful Polki bangles can be worn with sarees or salwar suits, and neutral or pearl white contemporary Polki bangles can be worn with Western dresses. Secondly, always try to balance the look. When wearing statement Polki bangles, opt for simple and understated necklaces and earrings unless it is your wedding day. Also, depending on your outfit and final look, try to coordinate or contrast Polki bangles with other accessories. You can even mix colours and patterns for a more eclectic look as long as they eventually complement each other harmoniously.
Though Polki bangles look good on almost every occasion, you must consider the occasion and the outfit before finalising the type of Polki bangles. For instance, if you are attending the haldi, henna, pheras, and wedding reception, opt for different colours, metals, motifs, and widths of bangles to give you a unique look each time. You can even stack up lightweight pieces. Keep experimenting until you are satisfied with the final look. Contemporary Polki diamond bangles are here to stay. They are the bridge between India’s rich historical past and its vibrant future. So, invest in an original statement piece or fill your jewellery box with imitation Polki bangles, the choice is yours!
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