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Polki Earrings
In the tapestry of fine Indian jewellery, Polki earrings have fascinated women for over two thousand five hundred years. Polki earrings echo the changing aesthetic sensibilities with rich history and exquisite craftsmanship. They lend elegance to an ensemble with a touch of sophistication, epitomizing timeless beauty. Polki earrings are a part of India’s rich traditions and cultural heritage. Polki earrings originated during the Mughal era. The meaning of Polki Earrings embodies the fine art of crafting Polki earrings was first discovered by gold artisans in the royal court of Bikaner, Rajasthan. Soon, word spread to Jaipur, Delhi and the Indian subcontinent. The Mughals, known for their love of jewellery and architecture, found a penchant for it, significantly elevating this fine art form for royalty. Mughal emperors, courtiers, and nobility began to wear Polki ornaments. Polki earrings soon became a favourite with the Rajput Maharanis and the Mughal Begums. The Bali, Mor-bhanwar, Jhumka, Kanphool and Pippal patti styles used Polki diamonds and gold. Until the fall of the Mughal dynasty in 1857, the exotic Polki earrings had become an integral part of royal jewellery collections. Today, Polki earrings inspired by mystical Mughal patterns, motifs and designs are still a favourite in weddings and traditional events. Synonymous with luxury and wealth their demand is high among prospective brides who want to own a pair of Polki earrings. Polki earrings represent elegance, purity, eternal love, status and auspiciousness while celebrating Indian craftsmanship. Polki earrings are gold earrings that use uncut diamonds called Polkis. Polki is a term used for a specific type of diamond that originated in India. A Polki diamond is an uncut or raw diamond in its natural form without much faceting. These diamonds are only cleaved and not cut and polished like modern-day diamonds. As they do not undergo several stages of processing and physical or chemical treatment, they retain most of their natural shape, colour and inclusions. Due to this, each Polki diamond is different from the other, making it unique in form and size. Polki diamonds have a rustic appearance, exude an old-world charm, and have a much softer sparkle. Polki earrings use centuries-old handcrafting techniques developed in the Mughal era, where artistry was paramount. The settings commonly used to date are Jadau, Badroom and Takkar. In Jadau, the Polkis are embedded into a 24-karat gold foil casing, locally called daank. In Badroom setting, the Polkis have a tulle style. They are arranged in a jaali or mesh pattern and encased in 24-karat gold. Lastly, in the Takkar setting, the embedded Polkis are placed edge-to-edge without any gold packing. These Polki diamonds may even be surrounded by other precious stones like emeralds, rubies, and pearls. The Polki earrings created using these settings with unfinished natural diamonds have become legendary jewel art.
Diving into the Design
Polki earrings celebrate the inherent beauty of diamonds in their most natural state. The old-style heavy chandelier gold Polki earrings are perfect for weddings and traditional occasions. These luxury earrings are valuable and often handed down as heirloom pieces. On the other hand, contemporary Polki earrings are more versatile. They can be in gold but much lighter in weight, or they can be in silver, too. They may use the best quality Syndicate Polki, medium quality Zimbabwean Polki or Kilwas Polki, the lowest among the three.
Having said this, traditional or contemporary Polki earrings still have few elements unique to their style and characteristics. Firstly, every pair of Polki earring typically incorporates uncut diamonds. These raw diamonds are unfaceted and untreated, giving the Polki earrings a more natural and classic appearance. Furthermore, gold is the primary and most preferred metal to set Polkis. Polki earrings have Polkis set in 22-karat gold and 24-karat gold foil at the base to enhance their lustre.
Polki earrings are handcrafted and painstakingly recreated from Rajput and Mughal artistry. They feature intricate motifs of flowers, birds, and animals. They may also have religious symbols or motifs representing the divine. In addition, many Polki earrings are embellished with Meenakari, the Persian art form of enamelling developed during the Mughal era. Polki earrings even use Jadau process or technique wherein the Polkis are embedded in molten gold or the Kundan process, in which a gold foil cup encases the Polkis.
Today, contemporary Polki earrings are also available in imitation, making them more affordable and easy to own. You can build your collection of Polki earrings to go with different outfits. There are hundreds of Polki earring designs to select in gold plating that look like real gold. Firstly, these imitation Polki earrings may be in silver, brass or some cheaper alloy. Secondly, they may use glass, moissanites or synthetic Polkis, instead of mined diamonds and precious coloured gemstones. They may use a combination of settings from Kundan to the more recent bezel and cluster setting. Also, the work on these Polki earrings may not be as intricate as their older counterparts. Though evolved over centuries, each Polki earring with its ornate detailing continues to exude the same royal vibe to date.
Occasions
Polki earrings offer a different kind of allure. Deeply rooted in tradition and featuring prominently in bridal trousseaus, they have stepped up to become more versatile and suit other occasions too.
Traditionally, Polki jewellery was associated with big fat Indian weddings. The bride dresses in the most elaborate and custom-made Polki jewellery, symbolising wealth and good fortune. Even Bollywood divas and celebrity brides wore Polki earrings on their wedding day. The raw appeal of Polkis makes it a perfect accessory on heavy sarees and lehengas. Besides the bride at a wedding, several women invitees put on their Polki earrings to add a touch of tradition and elegance to the auspicious occasion. Polki earrings besides enjoying a close relationship with wedding trousseaus, likewise have a cherished connection with India’s glorious festivals. You can wear pretty Polki jhumkhas, balis or multi-coloured Polki earrings with enamel work, on festive occasions like Diwali, Dussehra, Ganesh Chaturthi or Eid.
Polki earrings make a style statement. Polki balis are so adaptable and handy that you can wear them to any cultural or religious event. Whether you are attending a classical dance performance or a housewarming pooja, just clip on those Polki balis. Polki earrings have the right gleam-n-glam to enhance your overall look. Whether traditional, Western or fusion fashion, you can even wear a pair of fashionable Polki earrings to casual events like a family get-together, a birthday party, or an anniversary celebration.
Designers are increasingly incorporating contemporary designs in Polki earrings to make them more suitable for day-to-day wear. Plain, coloured, lightweight, affordable or Mughal-inspired, there is a Polki earring to wear every day. Fashionably adorned Polki studs are the perfect accessory for formal events. They effortlessly transition from day to night and look good on formal wear. Polki studs showcase the rustic charm of uncut diamonds, combining traditional aesthetics with contemporary flair. Contemporary design Polki earrings, have found their way across Indian borders. Be it a statement earring for a wedding ceremony or a simple stud earring for a formal event, Polki earrings offer something for every occasion.
How to Style Polki Earrings
Polki earrings in any shape, size, style, colour and material look great when coordinated in line with the occasion, the outfit and the overall look. So, check with your stylist when dressing for special occasions, or begin by experimenting with smaller Polki earrings. With Polki stud earrings to Polki jhumkas, you can create the most powerful yet effortlessly pretty look. Learn how to style Polki earrings with different outfits for various occasions, and you are ready to be the next glam queen.
Polki stud earrings are the most basic and classic pair of earrings that you can combine or contrast for the perfect look. Often compared to a solitaire, they are literally the Indian version. These Polki studs are understated and easy to wear with Western and ethnic outfits. You can wear a single white Polki stud earring to a formal occasion or a more elaborate Polki stud surrounded with coloured gems or pearls for a more festive look.
Polki jhumka earrings define traditional Indian aesthetics. They have been around for 2500 years and continue to woo women. The typical bell-shaped design elevates any look. Get larger jhumkas with or without Meenakari work and coloured gemstones to wear at weddings and festivals. For a formal look or day-to-day wear, get smaller jhumkis in Polki and pearls. You can also select jhumkhas with Mughal motifs for a more retro look.
Modern Polki danglers can be styled on Indian and Western wear. Polki dangler earrings, graceful and feminine, hang below the earlobe. They come in various shapes and sizes and may be decorated with mystical motifs and colourful Meenakari art. Save the larger and more intricate danglers for your big day. Long chandeliers look gorgeous on a bride when styled with matching Polki necklaces, Polki bangles and Polki rings. While styling Polki danglers that lend an old-world charm, avoid other heavy jewellery unless you are the beautiful bride.
Image Credits
Rubans | Ogaan India | Aza Fashion