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Hand Block Printing
Hand-printed textiles are a significant part of India’s economy and are famous all over the globe. Uttar Pradesh is an essential hub for hand block printing, with classically traditional designs like paisley, butis, and the tree of life as a part of the state’s flourishing prints portfolio. These prints are generally made in various centres of Uttar Pradesh like Farrukhabad, Lucknow, Tanda, Varanasi, and Pilakhua.
Tracing Its Origin
Hand block printing is a deep-rooted element of India’s culture and traditions since it has played a significant role in developing its economy and has also helped with the problem of unemployment. The first record of the existence of this technique can be dated back to the Indus Valley Civilization, around 3500 to 1300 BC. It only gained popularity and support during the rule of the Mughal Emperor.
Farrukhabad is a significant centre of hand block printing in Uttar Pradesh and has a unique flair for printing - making it well-known and attractive to people worldwide.
This city is synonymous with art, especially since its advent by the first Bangash Nawab, Muhammad Khan. The Nawab ensured the creation of exceptional amenities for the artisans residing there.
How It’s Done
Block printing is a tremendously time-consuming technique, but it is customizable as per the latest trends and client requests. Different states have varying factors in their printing process, but the outcome of each is beautiful.
In Uttar Pradesh, the artisans create blocks made out of wood, or sometimes brass, and then use them to outline the desired design. These blocks are first soaked in salted water, scraped, and smoothened; then, the block is carved using a paper stencil by using a cutting machine. Next, the raw fabric is appropriately spread on a table, and covered with a blanket or waterproof cloth with starch paste. Colour is painted onto the fabric manually by artisans using paint brushes in different sizes to ensure that they are vibrant and stand out from the fabric’s color when the designs are printed.
Popularly, colours like yellow, red, and blue, with a combination of brown, orange, and green, are used for this step. The ink for printing is concocted using gum powder, caustic soda, sodium silicate, oil, relative colours, and liquid soap. Finally, the designs are printed on the coloured fabric using ink made from scratch.
Design Element
Motifs used for hand block printing in Uttar Pradesh are inspired by Muslim architecture and have traces of Indo-Persian influence. Some examples of the created motifs include the tree of life, paisley, and butis.
The ‘tree of life’ motif is recognized by cultures globally and has many meanings since it is interconnected with mythology, science, philosophy, and religion. Visually, it shows the tree surrounded by features like animals, birds, and vases, with a sequence of narrow and wide floral borders. Early renditions of this motif showcased peacocks, lotuses, and even marine animals like fishes.
Butis are one of the most traditional and most minor motifs used in hand block printing and are essentially polka dots. They are typically printed on light coloured fabrics to make them stand out more.
Paisley motifs are created in various shapes and sizes using fine, bold or medium designs. In India, it is also known as the ‘mango’ or ‘keri’ motif.
Hand Block Printing Today
While the art of hand block printing is intricate and requires more labor and time, it is elegantly preserved throughout the country in different states. Nonetheless, with the introduction of high-tech machinery to aid with the tedious process, its novelty has reduced, leading to an extreme amount of pressure on it. Artisans have expressed their inability to keep up with the endless chain of demand and supply but have not been able to move further with this inherent difficulty.
However, several NGOs and art associations are working with the locals of Uttar Pradesh to uplift this art form and not let ancient tradition fall apart under the guise of market pressure and a general lack of resources. So far, their attempts have not led to empty results but have encouraged people to learn more about the art, and eventually, they will also be interested in learning how it is done exactly.
Hand Block Printing is a traditional printing technique that involves the use of hand-carved wooden blocks to create intricate designs on textiles, such as those seen in Chikankari Embroidery and Bagru prints.
Shop Hand Block Printed Pieces
Hand block printed items inspired by Uttar Pradesh’s traditional motifs can be purchased from designers like Chaturbhuj Das, Gaurav Katta, Siddhartha Bansal, Charu Parashar, Ridhi Mehra,
and many more at Pernia’s Pop-Up Shop.
Image Credits
Amazon | Asia Inch | Centsational | Esamskriti | Cotton Saares | Gaatha | India Mart | Link Springer | Pinterest | The Label Studio | Undiscovered Indian Treasures