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Tant Sarees
Suited to the hot and humid climate of West Bengal, the tant saree is amongst the most favoured by Bengali women. Designed for everyday use, Bengali tant sarees are typically made using cotton fibres and distinguished with the light and airy feel of the garment. These sarees have an expressive border highlighted with mainly paisley and floral motifs.
Tracing Its Origin
The earliest documentation of the tant saree can be traced back to the 15th Century, in Shantipur, a village in the Nadia district of West Bengal. It especially thrived during the Mughal period, where it received immense support from the royalty with muslin and jamdani.
However, after the British colonized India, they attempted to erase this craft to safeguard the Manchester textile industry’s agenda.
How They’re Made
Skillfully woven using locally-sourced cotton, the threads are first thoroughly washed with water to remove contaminants. The cotton is then dried in the sun and sent to be bleached and dyed. After the dying process is complete, the cotton is sent to weavers in bundles to set the threads into bobbins. These threads are wrapped onto a wooden log to add a loom for the saree to be weaved. Weaving is done on a handloom by traversing the longitudinal threads (warp) with the horizontal threads (weft). For a better look and finishing, weavers apply a paste made from sago or popped rice; this adds a sheen to the saree, making it ready for traders.
The most simple designs can take up to ten to twelve hours to complete. In a tin shed workshop, the weavers work for more than fourteen hours per day.
Variations of the Crafts
There are three main types of tant sarees that have attained popularity in West Bengal and globally.
Dhakai jamdani is a traditional saree that originated in Dhaka, the capital of Bangladesh. The motifs made on it range between shapes, flowers, and nature-inspired designs like polka dots, panna hajar (thousand emeralds), charkona (rectangular), and others alike.
The korial lal paar saree is what Bengalis hold near their hearts in terms of their culture and auspicious occasions like Durga Puja. It is mainly white and has a deep red border.
A garad saree is parallel to the korial lal paar in its colours. The only factor differentiating the two is the floral and paisley motifs in the garad saree.
Design Element
Using a discontinuous weft weaving technique, jamdani can be described as the art of exquisite ‘Parsi Gara’. It is similar to tapestry work to a certain degree with its small shuttles of coloured threads being passed through the material. Motifs in jamdani technique are usually associated with Bengali culture, but generally range from ‘butidar’, which is scattered floral designs, ‘tercha’, where flowers are dispersed diagonally, and ‘jhalar’, which is a web of linked floral designs. Jamdani is found in a variety of colours depending on the demand and trend, but they are largely restricted to muted or bright hues. Tant sarees are traditional Bengali cotton sarees that often feature intricate Kantha embroidery designs.
Tant Sarees Today
As time continues to pass, tant sarees have ceased to be a part of the daily lives of Bengali women around the world. However, several designers are working with local weavers and artisans to revive this beautiful handloom saree in all its glory. This revival has proven to be quite a difficult task given how women tend to prefer more high-end sarees over a seemingly modest choice like the tant. But, the tant fabric is amazingly versatile and can be transformed suitably for cushions, bed linen, and soft furnishing items.
Symbolism & Significance
Following Bengal’s partition in 1947, weavers migrated from Bangladesh to settle in Phulia, a village near Shantipur. The weavers brought a piece of their culture with them, which led to the tant saree becoming what it is today — a perfect blend of traditions from both Bangladesh and West Bengal.
Find this unpresuming saree from designers like Nupur Kanoi and many more on Pernia’s Pop-Up Shop.
Image Credits
Avishya | Craftsvilla | Google Arts and Culture | Heer Fashion | Itokri | Royal Bengal Tours | The Print | Tilfi | Times of India | Unnati Silks | Wikipedia | WeaveinIndia