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Baluchari
Famous for its illustrative themes exhibiting traditions and social life, baluchari is a saree made in Murshidabad, a historical city in West Bengal. Handwoven with rich silk, baluchari encompasses intricate artwork that strongly represents Indian mythology and folktales.
Tracing Its Origin
Baluchari’s history can be traced back to 1704 CE, when Murshid Quli Khan, the first Nawab of Bengal, changed his capital from Dacca (now Dhaka) to Maksudabad (now Murshidabad). The Nawab’s artisans shifted along with his court from Dacca and were given space to settle in Baluchar (now Jiaganj) village.
After the Ganga river flooded, the village of Baluchar submerged, and the artisans consequently moved to Bishnupur, a village in the Bankura district. They developed their unique style, setting a statement in the saree industry during the Malla era.
How They’re Made
It is enlightening to witness how threads can be woven into something as beautiful as the baluchari saree. To understand the technique and production better, the making has been divided into various stages, starting with the cultivation of cocoons. The finest silk is made with domesticated and cultivated silkworms fed mulberry leaves to increase their body size. Once the cocoon has been spun, the worm hatches into a moth, and the cocoon is immersed in hot water. This produces exceptionally long filaments. Raw silk is then processed to remove the naturally protective gum, leaving silk fibres in their wake.
Next, the yarn is boiled in a soda and soap mixture to make it soft. It is then dyed in acid colour as per the requirements of the saree and stretched by hand to create the yarn crisper. After this, motifs are made, for which they are first drawn onto graph paper and then coloured and punched with cards. These cards are then sewn and adjusted in the jacquard machine. Soon after, the jacquard handloom is brought into the picture, and weaving officially begins. This typically takes up to a week or two, with the artisans' weaving done on a shift basis.
Although there is not a lot of variety in the silk or weaving technique used in recent years, baluchari work can be distinguished based on the threads used during weaving.
Baluchari (Resham) is the simplest and has Resham threads of a sole colour to weave an entire design pattern. Baluchari (meenakari) has threads of two or more colours. They are accompanied by the infamously appealing Meenakari work that helps make the design more unique. Swarnachari refers to the baluchari with gold or silver coloured threads.
The final price of a baluchari saree is determined by the cost of its threads, how complex the design is, and the cost of artisans’ hard work, skills, and dedication.
Design Element
A traditional pochampally saree is made on a white and red combination. However, the colour palettes have become innumerable and more creative with increasing demand. Colours such as, blue, pink, and yellow are widely preferred.
The motifs are truly abstract and not specific. Birds and trees inspire some, but they are primarily bold geometric patterns repeated all over the body of the fabric. The most significant and intricate design is the “Telia Rumal”, which translates to, “oily hankerchief”- referring to the oil treatment of the yarns before weaving. This design is obtained by a double ikat process and was first ordered by the Nizams of Hyderabad, because of its intricacy.
Baluchari sarees are a type of handloom silk sarees originating from West Bengal, India, featuring intricate designs and motifs similar to Jamdani sarees, while Pochampally sarees are also handwoven silk sarees, but originating from Telangana, India, featuring geometric patterns.
Baluchari Today
Even though it lost popularity during the Mughal and Malla rule, baluchari weaving has set an example of how elaborate designs can also portray true elegance with bright threads and colours. Protected by Geographical Indication, baluchari silk is a premium garment with its worth being rightfully differentiated. It holds the richness of Bengali history right within its plaits, making it a timeless classic.
In the present era of contemporary global fashion, baluchari sarees are often donned as a status symbol and, more than that, a sign of aristocracy, good style, and appreciation for their importance in history. Baluchari sarees continue to be woven traditionally with a few tweaks that make them more fitting for the modern world and remain the pride of West Bengal’s culture and heritage.
Baluchari sarees can be bought from Aditri at Pernia’s Pop-Up Shop in various colours and designs.
Image Credits
Aditri | Arteastic | Baluchari Silk | Buddha and Beyond | Get Bengal | Holidify | Medium | My Grandma Legacy | Nalli Silks | Shop Gaatha | The Hindu