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The Pochampally fabric and sarees derive their name from the place of origin-“Bhoodan- Pochampally,” which belongs to the Bhuvanagiri district of Telangana. It is a form of ikkat tie-dye textile exclusively produced in India. The ikat patterns on a Pochampally fabric have distinguished geometric motifs and are famous for their colour retaining properties. Telangana is one of the oldest producers of ikat in India, besides Gujarat and Odisha. The town of Pochampally alone has thousands of looms and units creating these textiles. The weavers are not first-generation weavers. The art has been passed down to them from several generations above. Pochampally has been recognized as the world’s best tourism village.
The roots of Pochampally can be traced back to the 1800s in Telangana, but the art of ikat finds its earliest origins in Indonesia, China, and Egypt. Ikat was a popular part of the Silk Route that connected the arts and crafts of Asia and the Mediterranian. In India, it was first brought to Odisha by the Patans of Gujarat. Gradually, this art form gained more popularity and people from different regions started adapting it, by adding and creating twists and turns.
Pochampally, also locally known as Chitki, Pogudubandhu, and Buddabhashi, is mainly made on cotton, silk, and sico fabrics, a blend of both. The traditional patterns and design language on a pochampally ikat saree are entirely different from the ikat patterns of other regions. Also, the fabric is usually much softer than coarse ikat cotton fabrics. Apart from their distinguished designs, an original pochampally can be spotted by the feathered edges of its motifs. The lack of precision is proof of its authenticity and hand-weaving process, as opposed to machine-made.
Pochampally is another form of the ikat dyeing process, which is a resist-dyeing technique. The yarns of the fabric are dyed separately, creating shapes and patterns. Pochampally Ikat is the process of dyeing the warp and Weft yarns first and then adding them to the loom to weave the final textile fabric.
This dyeing process requires a considerable amount of care and skills.
It is believed that during the trade of ikats in the Silk Route, they were associated with wealth and power,
which was one of the reasons for its popularity and fame.
A traditional pochampally saree is made on a white and red combination. However, the colour palettes have become innumerable and more creative with increasing demand. Colours such as, blue, pink, and yellow are widely preferred in sarees.
The motifs are truly abstract and not specific. Birds and trees inspire some, but they are primarily bold geometric patterns repeated all over the body of the fabric. The most significant and intricate design is the “Telia Rumal”, which translates to, “oily hankerchief”- referring to the oil treatment of the yarns before weaving. This design is obtained by a double ikat process and was first ordered by the Nizams of Hyderabad, because of its intricacy.
Even though the art form has been in existence for centuries, it is only in 2005 that “pochampally ikat” was given the honour of the GI, i.e., Geographical Indicator tag by the Government of India. This tag thus validates the authenticity of the craft and its weavers. Initially these textiles were mainly sold as sarees but, now the demand has increased to a level where these fabrics are turned into all kinds of modern dresses, as well as furniture and home décor items. The pochampally sarees and Baluchari Sarees have seen the most glorious runways and have been adorned by many celebrities. If one desires to get their hands on these luxurious sarees, there are many online stores now that ship them directly from the source.
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