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Paithani Saree
The traditional Paithani saree was named after the town of Paithan in the Aurangabad district of Maharashtra. It is regarded as royalty among sarees and has come to hold a special place in a Maharashtrian bridal trousseau.
History Of Paithani Sarees
Its origin can be traced back to the royal dynasties of the historic town of Paithan, during the Satavahana district- 2nd century B.C to 2nd-century A.d. In earlier times, these sarees were exclusively made for the royalty, using threads of
luxurious gold zari. The region of Yeola in Nashik, Maharashtra, is the largest manufacturer of Paithani sarees.
How They’re Made
Exemplifying the refined craftsmanship of Indian handloom- every Paithani sari is made with luxurious gold zari to craft beautiful bird and floral motifs. Earlier, these handmade sarees were prepared with the finest silk threads of China and pure zari, spun locally. An authentic Paithani saree is made using around 500 grams of silk thread and 250 grams of zari thread to weave the entire six yards of length. Whereas, for the nine yards saree, raw materials of approximately 900 grams are required.
Initially, cotton was used for the body of the saree and silk was used for the borders and patterns. But, the present-day iterations of the Paithani sarees see no traces of cotton in the weaving. Traditionally, Paithani sarees were made of dyed cotton muslin; the Silk base came into use since the 19th century. The threads of the Paithani saree are so closely woven that it makes the surface look like a mirror.
This textile was known for using pure gold zari work; silver zari is also used as a substitute for affordable pricing today.
The three types of silk threads used in producing a Paithani saree are the Charkha, the Ciddle-Gatta known for its fine quality, shine and smoothness, and the expensive China silk.
Types of Paithani Sarees
Different weaving techniques used for Paithani sarees offer more variety for consumers. The Ekdhoti Paithani saree is made with a single shuttle, but the weft yarn's color is different from the warp yarn. Paithanis with a Kadiyal border are ones, which have the same colour of warp and weft yarns; Only the border and pallu is of a different colour. Simple butis adorn the entire body of the saree, giving it a toned-down, elegant look.
Traditional Paithani sarees can be classified into three colours- the “Kali Chandrakala” featuring an entirely black body with red border, “Raghu” which is a rich parrot green colour, and “Shirodak,” which refers to a shade of pure white.
Design Elements
The motifs seen on traditional Paithani sarees include parrots, lotus flowers, and peacocks. Ethnic motifs of Hans, Ashraffi, and Asawalli were famously rendered on the Paithani sarees during the reign of Peshwas. The pallu is defined by motifs of parrots, called Muniya- woven onto the borders in its natural colours of red and green.
The Panja- a geometric floral design outlined in red, the Barwa- a ladder of twelve strands and the traditional Mor or peacock, are the age-old designs that enrich the pallu of a Paithani saree.
It is fascinating how the Buddhist paintings of Ajanta caves also influence the Paithani sarees; Some popularly found motifs include- the lotus flower on which Buddha sits or stands, the swan, floral vine, peacock in bangle, clusters of three leaves, cotton flowers, moon, and stars.
The Paithani saree, renowned for its distinctive peacock motifs and luxurious silk fabric, stands apart from the Banarasi saree tradition while still sharing a common appreciation for intricate craftsmanship and timeless beauty.
Image Credits
Miraw | Neha Tarun | Karagiri | Femini | Wedding Wire | Seasons India | ScoopWhoop | Panash India