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Nauvari Saree
The nine-yard drape worn by the women of Maharashtra is known as the Nauvari saree. The quintessential way of wearing a Nauvari was first discovered by the Maratha warrior Princess, who wore it like a draped trouser, from in between the legs. This way of draping helped with easier movement and horse-riding. The Marathi women have continued to honor this traditional way of draping to date; even the modern-day Maharashtrian brides often wear Nauvaris on their wedding day.
History Of The Nauvari
The word, “Nauvari” translates to "nine yards". The significance of this saree style originated during the historical Peshwai rule of ancient India. Marathi women popularised this style of wearing a traditional "Kasta Nauvari" saree, during the rule of the Maratha empire. These women were required to
participate in battles in times of crisis, which is why the attire was draped in a way resembling men's trousers- to facilitate easy movement.
Draping Techniques
The style of draping the Nauvari saree is known as Kasta. It does not require a standard petticoat; instead, a pair of tight pants or leggings support the pleats at the waist. The first knot of the saree is tucked at the center, below the navel, to secure the pleats. The pallu is draped on the left shoulder and then wrapped around to bring it onto the right shoulder. The remaining part of the saree is fixed with four to five inches pleats and passed in between the legs from front to back. These pleats are pulled neatly and tucked in at the midriff. The remaining saree is brought to the front and wrapped on to the right waist. The final look of the saree drape makes it look like a dhoti.
However, the ways of draping a Kasta Nauvari vary depending upon caste and regions. While the Brahmin women wear a Nauvari with a metallic border on the front and back, the Aagri community from the Raigad district wear it at knee-length, known as 'adwa patal'. The women of the Kunbi tribe wear the drapes upside down, known as 'uprati', whereas women of the Koli tribal wear the saree in two pieces; One piece is draped around the waist while another is draped around the upper part of the body.
Evolution Of Nauvari Sarees
The Nauvari sarees were originally made out of handwoven cotton fabrics. It was later handcrafted in refined silk and satin. It was traditionally paired with a 3/4th sleeve blouse but now, all sorts of stylised blouses have helped change the look of this traditional drape.
Significance & Symbolism
The utilitarian spin to the saree offered a unique way of wearing it with femininity and fierceness. In earlier times, this style of draping the saree provided easy movement to the women who were asked to help male warriors in battles to help save their kingdom. The exquisite Nauvari saree has now become a significant part of Marathi culture, worn by Maharashtrian brides for their nuptials and important festivities like Ganesh Chaturthi and Gudi Padwa.
The Nauvari Saree is a traditional Maharashtrian garment that beautifully combines the elegance of a saree with the uniqueness of a lehenga saree and the versatility of a dhoti saree, creating a stunning ensemble.
Image Credits
ArttoFit | Editorial | Fashion | Get Ethnic | K4 Fashion | Wedding Wire | Shaadi Wish