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Bandhani Saree
"Bandhani" is derived from the Sanskrit word "Bandhan," meaning binding or tying. The bandhani tie & dye technique originated 5000 years ago in the Khatri community of Kutch, Gujarat. The Bandhani textile hubs are primarily situated in Rajasthan and Gujarat, extending to Sindh, Punjab, and Tamil Nadu. Authentic traditional varieties of these sarees can be found in Udaipur, Jaipur, Ajmer, Bikaner, Rajkot, Jamnagar, Bhuj, and Mandvi.
History Of Bandhani
The earliest traces of the Bandhani textile can be found from 4000 B.C, during the Indus Valley Civilization. History suggests that the first Bandhani saree was made for a royal marriage in the era of Banabhatta Harshacharita; It was meant to bring good fortune to the new bride.
Even the carved walls of Ajanta Caves show traces of Bandhani sarees.
How They’re Made
Bandhani is a native textile craft of Rajasthan and Gujarat created with the tie & dye technique. This dyeing technique is implemented by twisting, tying, and plucking the cloth in various ways to form patterns before they are dipped in a pot of dye. In some parts of Rajasthan, artisans wear a ring with metallic pointy nails to pluck dots easily. In ancient times only natural and organic vegetable dyes were used, but now artificial dyes are more widely used.
Binding and tying techniques are implemented to create exciting patterns. The dyeing is done by immersing the fabric in a large pot of boiling dye water. Making a Bandhani saree is tedious and requires a lot of manual labour. The craft is mainly performed on pure fabrics like cotton.
Types Of Bandhani Sarees
Gajji silk is a popular fabric made with a poly-silk blend used to make bridal Bandhani sarees. The Gharchola Bandhani and Panetar Bandhani sarees are variations that are traditionally handcrafted on gaji silk- resulting in a luxe finish. The sarees are then trimmed with zari borders and zari zardozi embroidery.
Borjaal Bandhani sarees are favoured by the Marwari community and are meant for traditional nuptial ceremonies; These sarees are characterized by a melange of colours and dots that form a web or maze.
The rich Banarasi Bandhani sarees are made on Katan silk, adorned with elaborate and intricate woven motifs; This is done with gold or silver zari threads.
Jhankaar Bandhani
sarees are yet another variation of bright and colourful drapes, characterized by contrasting and dark colour dots instead of light or white shades. The other typical Bandhani sarees found widely in the native states are made using darker colours on a light base fabric. Reversed colour discharge technique is used here, to make the lighter colours visible over darker patterns.
Shop Bandhani Sarees
Indigenous to Rajasthan and Gujarat, the art of Bandhani finds a special place in the meticulously created collections on Pernia’s Pop-Up Shop. The designers revive the textile patterning technique in Indian wear staples like kurta sets and tunics and statement-making festive ensembles like lehenga sets and sarees. Discover bandhani patterns in stunning creations by the best Indie designers like Anita Dongre, YAM INDIA, Suruchi Parekh, Sangeeta Kilachand, Seeash, Ruchira Nangalia, and more.
Image Credits
Miraw | Neha Tarun | Karagiri | Femini | Wedding Wire | Seasons India | ScoopWhoop | Panash India