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Made in the ancient city of Banaras, presently known as Varanasi, the Banarasi saree is a sartorial heritage craft of India. Mothers and grandmothers bequeathed these sarees from generation to generation and treasured them as heirloom pieces for ages.
The early mentions of Banarasi textile's legacy can be traced back to the times of Mahabharata. The migration of silk weavers from the state of Gujarat during the famine of 1603 gave rise to the occupation of silk weaving in Banaras. During the Mughal era, brocade weaving using intricate gold and
silver zari threads became a specialty of Banaras and the Mughals further influenced the craft, taking it to greater heights.
Banarasi Sarees are hand-crafted on pit-looms with gold and silver zari rendered with fine silk and rich weaves. The sarees are often passed through a brightener to increase their shine. The meticulously woven silk is delicately interwoven with traditional motifs and designs of floral and foliate, kalga and bel. The strings of jhallar attached at the edge of the pallu are also a signature element of Banarasi sarees- adding to its beauty. The metallic sheen, meena work, golden embroidery and woven figures are
what defines a traditional Banarasi saree. They are a highly significant part of an Indian bride's trousseau. A single saree can take up to months and sometimes, a year to complete- depending on its designs and patterns.
The Mughal empire highly patronized Banarasi textile in India. The immaculate craftsmanship of weaving zari into the silk fabric was refined by the weavers of India, who were considered impeccable artists during the era. Traditional Persian motifs often seen on the Banarasi weaves signify the Mughal influence. With the unparalleled work of ancient Kashi's silk weavers, the city became a flourishing textile capital of the region.
Visitors flocked to Kashi to purchase these exquisite textiles. Banarasi sarees soon became the most artisanal and culturally-rich piece of clothing for the royals and upper classes. They were owned by the elites and treated as family heirlooms, passed on to generations; This tradition still exists in modern India, where families gift Benrasi sarees to new brides and the older women of the family pass on their wedding Banarasi to their daughters and grand-daughters.
Banarasi sarees are favored as the most crucial traditional clothing to date, courtesy to the city of Varanasi which continues to hone the craftsmanship for generations. These sarees were considered as a sign of royalty, but now they are widely available to the mass. From being exclusively available to the elites to now becoming an essential item of clothing for women all-over the country- Banarasis have come a long way to become the ultimate classic.
Though the boom in the machine industry became a threat to the textile in 2009, the glory of brocade sarees was kept alive by skilled artisans of Azamgarh, Jaunpur, Mirzapur and Varanasi. Notable Indian couturiers presented the craft on the most glorious runways. Revivalist brands and designers like Ekaya, Sabyasachi, Raw Mango, Tilfi Banaras, Coloroso, etc- have brought the Banarasi weave to the forefront of modern fashion, reprising classics in contemporary, cutting-edge designs that suit the needs of modern women.
The Banarasi saree, renowned for its exquisite craftsmanship, showcases intricate designs and motifs in silk fabric, while the Kasavu saree from Kerala boasts a beautiful golden border, the Paithani saree from Maharashtra mesmerises with its vibrant colors and peacock motifs, the Tant sarees from West Bengal exemplify simplicity and elegance, and the Mysore silk sarees from Karnataka exude royal grandeur and rich texture.
The rich and royal appeal of Banarasi sarees makes them a winning choice for grand Indian festivities. Pernia's Pop-Up Shop curates wedding and festive ready sarees by Madhurya, Vaishali Agarwal, Sawan Gandhi, Trisvaraa and more.
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