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Zari Work

Zari Work

Zari work, also known as zardozi and kalabattu, is an elegant embroidery done in Rajasthan, mainly in Tonk, Jaipur, Ajmer, and Jodhpur. It is an intricate art of weaving fine gold or silver threads and yarns, mainly silk, to create ornate patterns. This embroidery owes its popularity to its precise, and beautiful patterns.

Tracing Its Origin

Usually associated with the aristocrats and royalty in India, Zari work and Mirror Work is amongst the most famous and complex techniques of metal embroidery. 

 

The word 'zari' is said to have originated in a small Persian village of the same name. It was brought to India by the Persian migrants between 1700-1100 B.C., during the Rigvedic period. Under the rule of Emperor Akbar in the Mughal Era, this embroidery especially grew famous. After that, when Aurangzeb ruled, the Zari embroidery went through a decline, becoming extinct. The reason for this was the high production costs since the craftsmen could not afford to carry forward this art form by themselves.

However, after India's independence from British rule, the government approached several steps to promote the infamous Zari embroidery work. Since then, it has become a part of the culture of many Indian states including Rajasthan, Gujarat, Maharashtra, Madhya Pradesh, etc.

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Design Elements

Zari work is done by twisting flattened metallic strips made from gold, silver, or nowadays, metallic polyester, around yarn made of silk, cotton, polyester, or other kinds of materials.

The sparkling dazzle of the threads is increased by passing it through a brightener, giving it a more aesthetically pleasing and elegant look.

How It’s Done

There are different forms of Zari work – zardozi, kamdani, mina work, and gota work.

 

Zardozi refers to typically more heavy and detailed embroidery, done for wedding outfits, coats, etc. The embellishments include gold threads, seed pearls, and beads.

 

Kamdani is a lighter embroidery done for items like scarves and caps. Regular thread and flattened wire are pressed down to create a satin stitch effect on the fabric, called 'hazara butti'. 

 

Mina work uses gold threads to mimic enamel work. In gota work, gota ribbons are woven with flattened gold or silver wire and silk or cotton threads to use as a trim on garments and textiles.

 

The main process involves the usage of tools like curved hooks, needles, sequins, sitaraas, glass/plastic beads, and Dabka thread, which is basically a thin coiled wire. Craftsmen trace the desired design over the fabric, preferably silk, velvet and satin. The cloth is stretched properly over a wooden frame, after which the embroidery begins. A needle is utilised for pulling out each zari element, and it is added back into the actual design by pushing the needle back into the fabric.

 

Zari can be categorised into three types, the different types of thread used, making it distinctive from the other.

Real zari is expensive since it is made out of real gold and silver. Imitation zari is made from thin silver electroplated copper wire, and metallic zari is created using slit polyester metallised film.

 

Both real and imitation zari are made to order by craftsmen, while customers can buy metallic zari directly off the store shelves.

 

Shine and elegance are important elements of any Zari embroidered garment, making its maintenance essential. The garments should be encased in soft cotton or muslin, and customers should also make sure to dry clean their garments from time to time. 

Zari Today

In line with the decline of royalty in India, Zari work has been restricted to a few parts of the country, Rajasthan being one of them. While it is recognised by the Indian government as one of the most ancient handicrafts, its popularity remains singularized to the upper-class society. It also acts as a symbol of an individual's social status.

 

Zari embroidery is generally used in items like sarees, lehengas, kurtas, and dupattas and has recently moved towards bags, dresses, wall hangings, etc. This craft is truly capable of dazzling your wardrobe with its renowned elegance and exquisite designs. 

 

The main markets in India for Zari products are based in Jaipur, Kolkata, Chennai, Nagpur, Mumbai, Mysore, Bangalore, Amritsar, Delhi, Varanasi, and additional cities in South India.

Shop Zari Work Pieces

Pernia's Pop-Up Shop features designers like Samant Chouhan, Tisha Saksena, Prathyusha Garimella, Hina Kochhar, Kavita Bhartia, Sonali Gupta, Surabhi Gandhi, Niti Bothra, Tarun Tahiliani, and many more who create clothing items with Zari embroidery. 

Image Credits

Bollywood Hungama | D'Source | Ethnic Plus | Gaatha | iStock | India Mart | My Crafts | Shreya Agarwal | Strand of Silk | Unnati Silks | Wedding Wire