Traces of leheriya and examples of the same date back to the seventeenth century, note historians. Artisans used 5 different colours in former times and the dyes were all-natural, derived from plants as well as minerals. Patronized by the elites of Rajasthan in the nineteenth and early twentieth century, was not a symbol of culture but also of status. Local traders and merchants wore Leheriya turbans with bright hues for years. For a really long time, it belonged to the Marwari classes & communities of Rajasthan before being popularised for the masses. The Rajputs of Rajasthan too used leheriya turbans as a symbol of their heritage.

Leheriya extended to other clothes like cholis, dupattas, etc. later on, and wasn’t just limited to a turban. Different forms also came into existence which are now world renown, and they are Mothra, Pachranga & Satranga.

Leheriya, or most other tie & dye techniques don’t use thick or tightly-woven cloths simply because they don’t enable absorption of colour into each layer.

This artform employs a wrap-resist dyeing technique in which typically white, thin cotton or silk fabrics act as the canvas for irregular, colourful stripe designs. First, the cloth is diagonally folded across one corner to the other, after which it is rolled into a tight coil and tied with thread at regular intervals. Once the initial prep of folding and rolling is completed, a dye/colour is applied only in a particular pattern on the cloth. Later, to add more colours, artisans roll the cloth again and re-tie it in order to resist the already-applied colour. 

Traditionally, natural dyes and several washes are required for the cloth to fully absorb colour and create the resulting patterns. In the last stages, indigo for blue tones or alizarin for red tones is used. 

A leheriya dupatta or leheriya dress pattern can take anywhere between 3 to four days to be ready. To prevent colour from bleeding, the tied & dyed fabric is soaked in a bucket of water containing a small amount of salt and kept overnight. 

Now, an array of Indian designers are experimenting with the colourful Leheriya fabric in the traditional, indo-western as well as western space. Nikasha is one such label which caters to the modern woman with a stunning range of Leheriya pieces including kaftans, skirts, kurtas and even accessories like potlis. 

The gorgeous Lehriya also takes centre stage in K-Anshika Jaipur’s new-age silhouettes. Pallavi Jaipur reimagines the age-old craft to fit the modern-day wardrobe. All of these labels with various types of Leheriya & Batik Prints can be found online  at Pernia’s Pop-Up Shop.