This technique is believed to have originated in China early on in the 3rd Century, and proof of its presence in Egypt and several other Asian countries was discovered later in the 4th Century. After that, it quickly spread to Europe, and various other parts of the world. 

It can be said with utmost certainty that the art of hand block printing is over 2000 years old, and the essence India’s cultural diversity adds to it is unmistakable. Communities like the Chippas and Khatris brought their age-old traditions of hand block printing to regions in Rajasthan, including Bagru, Sanganer, and Barmer.

These villages are the origin places for prints like bagru, Sanganeri and ajrakh. They have made Rajasthan one of the biggest economic hubs in India for the making and trading of block print fabric.

Each design has 2-4 colours, and for each colour, there is a separate block. At times, over five blocks are used to make one design, making the time and money it costs to produce block prints increase.

In Rajasthan, as mentioned before, there are specific regions where one may find traditionally hand-block printed fabrics. Inspired by Sindh in Pakistan, Barmer is mainly known for its vibrant red chillies with a blue or black outline, surrounded by trees filled with flowers. The artisans of Barmer usually produce Sarees, turbans and lungis. The village is also well-known for its Sikar and Shekhawat prints.

Bagru and Sanganer are especially significant because it is said that most of Rajasthan’s hand block printing is done there. Motifs used in the bagru print are intricate and floral, and the block printing is done using black, red and beige. Different shades of blue, including indigo, are also used in this print. The ajrakh print is mostly seen in darker shades of red and blue with geometrical designs. Sanganeri is more renowned for its muted colours.

Therefore, the motifs and designs of all block prints are usually inspired by local sources, and for the most part, can be grouped into floral, geometric, and figurative categories, respectively. 

Typically, there are two types of Hand Block Printing blocks - wooden and metallic. 

Wooden blocks have their own types: outlining block (rekh) and filling block (gadh). These blocks are carved by artisans where the motif is engraved using steel chisels, and a wooden handle, along with three cylindrical-shaped holes to allow free air to pass through is added. These blocks are cost-effective, but have a short life span, lasting for approximately 600-800 metres of printing. To soften the timber and ensure that no premature cracking occurs, the blocks are soaked in oil for about 10-15 days.

Metallic blocks are metal sheets beaten by hand to make them malleable and easy to work with. With the design already drawn on a wooden block, all that’s left is to cut the sheets into strips of the same length, and gently hammer the strips onto the wood. While metal blocks are expensive and time-consuming, they are a lot more long-lasting than wooden blocks.

Being an ancient craft, there are several renditions of hand block printing, namely direct block printing, resist printing, and discharge printing. 

All these printing methods require the cloth to be washed properly first in order to remove contaminants from it so that it is dyed uniformly using all natural dyes.

In direct block printing, the cotton/silk cloth is first bleached and then dyed unless a lighter tint is desired. Then, the fabric is printed on with carved blocks - rekh (outlining) and gadh (filling). The Bagru print is made using this particular technique. 

Resist printing involves covering areas on the cloth that don’t need to be dyed with a mixture of resin and clay. After it is dyed, the cloth is washed, producing a ripple effect where the dye spreads across the resist covered areas through cracks. Block prints are then used to create designs on the fabric. The Ajrakh print is created with this technique.

The fabric is dyed in discharge printing and a chemical is used to eliminate the dye from areas that are meant to have different coloured designs. These areas are treated, and recoloured later.

Upon the completion of the hand block printing process, artisans brush some fine sawdust onto the wet dye. This prevents the dye from smudging.