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Practised in Udaipur, Danke-ka-Kaam, or danka work is a unique and ornate form of metal embroidery that uses small diamond-shaped metal pieces that are stitched by hand on fabric using zari threads. In addition, the zardozi embroidery, Kantha Embroidery around it makes it more noticeable, and adds on to its beauty.
Over 400 years old, in the 16th Century, Danke-ka-Kaam was brought to India by the small Bohra community. They had migrated to Rajasthan, and settled there to practise this embroidery.
Danka work lies at the epicenter of the Rajasthani royal culture – it was an integral part of the traditional poshaks (attires) worn by the Mewari Rajput women of the state. Danka embroidered clothing was considered to be a staple for them at weddings and various different festivals.
Conventionally, the attire consists of kanchali (blouse), ghagra, which is a full-length gathered skirt, and odhni, a traditional veil.
‘Danka’ is a small plate that often varies in shape and size, but is not bigger than 1.5 cm. It was originally made of pure gold, but it is now silver-plated instead due to the high costs. In order to make the danka, thin and well-finished sheets of silver (98% pure) are electroplated in gold. Then, they are washed in water and polished using fine sand. The strips are cut to the appropriate size, and the pieces are hammered with stone until they begin to look like the tip of an ice-cream cone. This was earlier known as korpatti ka kaam.
Next, the fabric being used is stretched tightly over a wooden frame before the embroidery begins, and using a sharp needle, the artisans stitch the thread through the fabric.
Around 3-5 pieces of kasab, which is a gold or silver wire, are woven across and under the danka pieces. With a total of eight stitches shaped like a knot, it is attached to the fabric.
Due to the involvement of precious metals in Danke-ka-Kaam, the price of the finished item is measured by its weight.
This embroidery is usually done on lush fabrics like silk and velvet, which gives the finished product a luxurious sheen. Generally, motifs of the sun and the moon, flowers, paisleys, peacocks, vines, borders and scrolls are used in Danke-ka-Kaam. Stencils are used to apply the selected motif on the fabric.
In spite of being so historically popular, danka work is not as sought-after anymore. Only two authentic artisans remain in Rajasthan today to create danka embroidered items. Several training programmes and workshops have also been conducted to encourage the interest of Rajasthan’s youth. With great difficulty, twenty youngsters were persuaded by one of the two artisans to partake in this ancient embroidery technique.
Out of the twenty interested youngsters, three of them had potential to learn and proceed further with danka work. Following this, they were informed that depending on the amount of work that comes up, they will be trained further professionally.
Today, danka is embroidered on not only traditional attires of Rajasthan, but also sarees, and other modern clothing items. It is hoped that with the modernization of this embroidery, it will also regain its lost popularity. This will lead to it becoming one of the most recognized craft forms of both India, and the world.
Aditi Jain | Belles Couture LLP | D'Source | Gaatha.org | Google Arts and Culture | Industries Rajasthan | Picuki | Pinterest | Rustic Realities-Wordpress | The Indian Karigar | The Tezzy Files