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Banjara Embroidery
With its roots sunken deep in the deserts of Rajasthan, Banjara embroidery is colourful, and uses ghungroos (bells), mirrors, cowry shells, and titri (coins) to make clothing stand out more in a different way. It uses an incredibly unique fusion of patchwork and mirror work, pairing it with classic embroidery.
Tracing Origin
The origin or the history of the Banjara embroidery is based on the culture of a semi-nomadic community/tribe called the ‘Banjara’ from Rajasthan, also known as the Lamani, Lambani, and Banjara Lambani.
They are descendants of the Rajasthani Rajputs, and are widely recognised for their colourful clothing likely chaniya choli, folk accessories, and embroidery.
Design Elements
Colourful threads like yellow, red, green, off-white or black are used to reflect the vibrant lifestyle of the tribe. Mirror work, patchwork and the usage of embellishments like mirrors, cowry shells, etc. makes Banjara distinctive.
Usually, the embroidery is done on a fabric that’s a shade of blue or brown so that the fascinating work stands out clearly.
How It’s Done
There are a total of fourteen types of stitches used in Banjara embroidery - Kilan, Vele, Bakkya, Maki, Suryakanti Maki, Kans, Doranaaki, Kaudi, Rela, Gadri, Bhuriya, Pote, Jollya, and Nakra. These stitches are used to give each design a different look.
The chain stitch is called vele, where parallel lines are made to fill spaces and cover the base fabric completely.
Doranaaki is an evenly spaced running stitch made to look like an elongated dot.
In nakra, a small diamond is created using four straight lines.
Maki is a narrow vertical loop that seems to look like a single line - it forms an extension to another stitch like nakra.
Rela refers to a series of vertical loops closely interlaced so that the stitch’s intricacy is barely visible.
Symbolism & Significance
Banjara embroidery is an integral part of their culture. Cowries and titris were stitched onto the fabric as a symbol for prosperity, and mirrors were meant to protect them from wild animals. Traditionally, ghungroos were stitched on the borders of the pallu, and mirrors with a thread frame that was attached to the fabric. Earlier, these nomads used unspun cotton thread for embroidery, bold primary colours drawn from nature, and the essence of Rangoli is transferred on the fabric in the form of motifs.
This embroidery hardly ever uses figurative expressions in any form, like flowers, animals, or humans.
Banjara Embroidery Today
With India being the only nation in the world that has an unbroken and vibrant tradition of arts and crafts, the Banjara embroidery has reached homes of people globally who have come to adore it and know what Banjara is.
The Banjara tribe is famous for their traditional embroidery technique, and the artisans, usually females, use their skills to make small things like cushion covers and bags more beautiful. Then, they present their craftwork at various exhibitions, melas, or try to sell through NGOs who work towards preserving the arts and cultures of India. They are also sometimes hired by designers to provide employment and spread the word about the beautiful Banjara embroidery. However, the youngsters of the Banjara tribe have opted out of wearing their community’s heritage in the form of heavy, embroidered clothes. This has put a strain on their culture, and also led to a severe detachment from their traditions.
On a more positive note, items made with Banjara embroidery stitches are extremely popular, and are growing on a more globally recognized platform with the help of designers and NGOs. The rural charm makes it a lot more aesthetic and admirable, leading to its success in the world of Indian arts and crafts.
Despite this, it is on the brink of extinction as more and more modern technology approaches, making it lose its traditionally vibrant essence. Banjara Embroidery and Gota Patti is among the most famous works that are popular in Rajasthan.
Image Credits
Banjara | Chivukulas | D'Source | Deccan Herald | First Post | Gaatha | Gem App | Google Arts and Culture | Saneens | Twitter-Banjara Fashion | Vivarang