A theory of Phulkari embroidery history states that it travelled from Iran as Gulkari which also translates to floral work.  The earliest mention of the word Phulkari embroidery can be found in the b Literature of the 18th century. 

In Waris Shah’s version of the legendary Punjabi tragic romance Heer Ranjha, it is mentioned that the female protagonist ‘Heer’ adorned clothing rendered in Phulkari embroidery. References were also found in Guru Granth Sahib, Vedas Mahabharata and continue to be mentioned in Punjab folk music. 

Surajmukhi translated as 'sunflower' is the main type of Phulkari embroidery seen widely in traditional salwar kameez and dupattas. 

The Panchranga Bagh type of embroidery is defined with five colours, customised in chevron patterns in multiple bright colours. Similarly, the Satranga Bagh type of embroidery is rendered in seven colours. 

Chope is the fine form of Phulkari embroidery made by the maternal grandmother of the bride which is begun as soon as the girl child is born. Rendered on a dupatta, it is meant for the bride to wrap her head after the ritual bath on her wedding day. The Chope Phulkari embroidery is made in a monochromatic colour tone. 

Vari-Da Bagh is another form of Phulkari embroidery that holds significance in the event of a wedding. It is rendered on a bright red khaddar fabric highlighted with orange or golden embroidery in three or four concentric diamonds in growing size. It is given to the bride by her in-laws upon her arrival in the new house. 

The techniques and making of Phulkari was never documented but the craftsmanship was passed to posterity through personal lessons and by word of mouth. As noted with the variety in types, the Phulkari embroidery is identified uniquely by each community in Punjab. The silk thread is sourced from Kashmir and Bengal. The thread strands were counted before starting the embroidery for an accurate overall look. 

 However, the motifs were never drawn beforehand. The Phulkari technique embroidery was practised in every household rather than by a special cluster of artisans. The rich floral designs and artistic patterns rendered in the Phulkari embroidery sometimes take upto a year for completion. Now, everyone knows what phulkari is and how it is done.