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Phulkari
The mention of Phulkari can be traced back to the romantic folklore of Heer Ranjha. The art of Phulkari came with Jat tribes who migrated to India and settled in the Northern parts of India like Punjab, Haryana and Gujarat. The floral embroidery is etched in the culture of Punjab, which depicts the sundry values of the region.
Tracing Origin
A theory of Phulkari embroidery history states that it travelled from Iran as Gulkari which also translates to floral work. The earliest mention of the word Phulkari embroidery can be found in the b Literature of the 18th century.
In Waris Shah’s version of the legendary Punjabi tragic romance Heer Ranjha, it is mentioned that the female protagonist ‘Heer’ adorned clothing rendered in Phulkari embroidery. References were also found in Guru Granth Sahib, Vedas Mahabharata and continue to be mentioned in Punjab folk music.
Variations Of The Craft
Surajmukhi translated as 'sunflower' is the main type of Phulkari embroidery seen widely in traditional salwar kameez and dupattas.
The Panchranga Bagh type of embroidery is defined with five colours, customised in chevron patterns in multiple bright colours. Similarly, the Satranga Bagh type of embroidery is rendered in seven colours.
Chope is the fine form of Phulkari embroidery made by the maternal grandmother of the bride which is begun as soon as the girl child is born. Rendered on a dupatta, it is meant for the bride to wrap her head after the ritual bath on her wedding day. The Chope Phulkari embroidery is made in a monochromatic colour tone.
Vari-Da Bagh is another form of Phulkari embroidery that holds significance in the event of a wedding. It is rendered on a bright red khaddar fabric highlighted with orange or golden embroidery in three or four concentric diamonds in growing size. It is given to the bride by her in-laws upon her arrival in the new house.
How It’s Done
The techniques and making of Phulkari was never documented but the craftsmanship was passed to posterity through personal lessons and by word of mouth. As noted with the variety in types, the Phulkari embroidery is identified uniquely by each community in Punjab. The silk thread is sourced from Kashmir and Bengal. The thread strands were counted before starting the embroidery for an accurate overall look.
However, the motifs were never drawn beforehand. The Phulkari technique embroidery was practised in every household rather than by a special cluster of artisans. The rich floral designs and artistic patterns rendered in the Phulkari embroidery sometimes take upto a year for completion. Now, everyone knows what phulkari is and how it is done.
Symbolism & Significance
The embroiderers draw inspiration from surroundings, nature, botany and also mundane lifestyle or conversations between a mother and daughter. The birth of a girl child is considered to be an auspicious beginning in the family. The grandmothers and mother of the girl child start the phulkari hand embroidery on different types for her to carry with the trousseau upon her marriage. The hundreds of phulkaris accumulated for the daughter of the family are made in different types.
Unique Features
One of the distinctive features of Phulkari is the use of darn stitch on the wrong side of the Khaddar fabric, i.e, coarse cotton fabric. The darn stitching is done with dyed silk thread stands or floss called Paat. It is meant to lend a striking effect and stylise the patterns and designs with more richness. Presently, the darning is done only on the front side considering cost reductions.
Phulkari embroidery is prominently inspired by nature and surroundings of life in the villages of Punjab. No religious references or Darbar scenes are rendered in this traditional embroidery.
Phulkari, a vibrant and captivating embroidery technique originating from Punjab, weaves together the finesse of chikankari's intricate patterns, the softness of pashmina fabric, the opulence of gota patti's golden threadwork, the shimmer of mirror work's reflective embellishments, the elegance of juttis' traditional footwear, and the skillful artistry of soof embroidery, creating a masterpiece that embodies the rich cultural heritage of India.
Image Credits
D'Source | Handmade Indian Products | Hunar Courses | Marry Me Wedding Planners | Phulkari | Steemit | Strand of Silk | The Heritage Lab