The Punjabi ghagra choli came into fashion during the 1960s in West and East Punjab. It later became less popular due to the evolution of the Punjabi salwar kameez ensemble. The ghagra choli set is to date adorned in Western Punjab, parts of Himachal Pradesh and Haryana.

A popular variation of ghagra-the lehenga is traditionally made with fine embroideries and rich fabrics, customary for the Punjabi brides. The women in parts of Haryana and Himachal Pradesh wear the shorter silhouette of ghagra, which is usually above the ankles.

Anciently, the difference between a ghagra choli ensemble and salwar kameez was that the trousers were layered with a voluminous skirt, worn as a four-piece ensemble. The angi, defined by a bodice silhouette and short sleeves, layered over a Kurti was a variation of the choli. Originally, the choli was the Kurti, usually worn with the salwar itself. 

The volume of the ghagra was made from 9 to 25 yards of khadi fabric to create a large flare that was typically embroidered with gota embroidery, badla work and phulkari. The colours were rendered with natural dyes of indigo, lac and turmeric. 

The long flared skirt is also referred to as the Lacha in Punjabi. Reserved for the brides, the lacha is embroidered delicately and cut in a voluminous flare. The women in the wedding would wear the same. Also worn by folk dancers and rural women, the ghagra choli ensemble is customised in vivid colours of pink, orange, blue and yellow. 

The different types of ghagra choli styles till date commands keen attention for weddings and festive occasions. Women have been customising the ghagra choli as per their style sensibilities. Women started embroidering the ghagra and choli with phulkari embroidery and gota patti for a dazzling appeal.