The origin of Bomkais can be traced back to around the 1950s, discovered by the "Bhulia" community of weavers. Before this discovery, the norm of this region was plain cotton sarees, but soon the Bomkai became a lavish, luxury saree compared to those plain cotton ones. 

From the olden days, woven motifs on these sarees were inspired by elements of nature and mythology. The earliest examples of these motifs are the atasi flower, bitter gourd, birds, and fish. 

Ikkat patterns can be seen alongside the paar or border, and the overall body is kept plain with small butis. 

The foremost step in the manufacturing of bomkais is dyeing the yarns. Earlier, only natural dyes extracted from fruits and flowers were used. Even though chemical dyes have substituted natural ones, the colours used remain intense.

Traditionally bomkais are made by the method of weaving on hand-looms. After the fabric has been dyed, the signature motifs on the pallu are woven on these fly-shuttle pit looms with a choice of colourful threads.

Initially, these sarees were made using the age-old "Jaala" technique. The word jaala means a frame with alternating hollow sections (through which the warp threads are lifted). 

In this weaving technique, threads are attached to the top of the loom, and the weaver sits at the back of the loom, pulling the threads to make complex designs. But now, with modern market demands, this technique has had a setback due to its high time consumption. Faster methods are now used instead.