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Hailing from the royal dynasties of Paithan in Aurangabad, the Paithani saree is a Maharashtrian bride's favourite. It has evolved with a cultural significance of Maharashtra and is also referred to as the Queen of Sarees.
The history of Paithani Saree originated during the Satavahana Empire from 2nd Century B.C. to 2nd Century A.D. The silk handloom gets its name from the town of origin, Paithan, made originally with the finest silk from China and pure zari spun locally. The first Paithani saree was handwoven in Paithan and made for sophisticated buyers. Being one of the highly treasured textiles of the region, the Peshwas, the Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb, and the Nizams were the ones to majorly popularise the saree.
A notable turning point for the manufacturing of Paithani Culture Sarees, when production saw a brief setback, was when the weavers relocated to Yeola, Nashik. Paithani weaving was rebirthed in the town during the Industrial Revolution.
The very first step in the making of a Paithani saree involves weaving the pallu, either with silk warp or with zari. This step takes up the most time, as it is highly intricate, and the saree itself is renowned for its detailed and exquisite borders. It can take anywhere between two days to two weeks for the pallu to be finished, depending on the design or motif being made. No one except highly-skilled artisans is employed to weave the pallu.
Next, the body of the saree is woven, with distinct borders on both edges. While the designs are almost always preset - the weaver himself can incorporate unique elements as long as the thread count remains the same. Handling the bana and tana is also a very important step in the process.
On completing every 3-4 inches of the body, a mixture of gum and water is used to polish the zari to keep it stiff. This step is also aimed at sealing loose threads. Primarily, sticky substances like gum, jaggery, etc., are used to polish along with a mixture of other ingredients which, fascinatingly enough, don't leave a stain on the fabric.
A Paithani Saree can be identified in various ways. The lustrous Paithani culture sarees are dyed naturally, limiting their range of colours to red, yellow, green, blue, magenta and purple. Available in 6 and 9 yards, both sides of the Paithani handloom will showcase the same design, including the border and pallu.
Inspired by architecture and Buddhism and the town's culture, one can find eccentric motifs such as the lotus, peacock, swan, parrots, and even musical instruments on the border. They are accentuated with intricate motifs on the border and pallu. The pallu can be seen with motifs of the coconut and traditional fans.
The Paithani Saree was traditionally made of cotton and silk, but the contemporary Paithani is purely constructed of silk and zari. Everyone knows what Paithani Saree is today. One of the notable changes the Paithani Saree has seen is a broader border providing more space for whimsical designs. Paithani sarees are adorned with intricate motifs inspired by nature and ancient art, while Mashru Himroo sarees feature geometric patterns and a mix of vibrant colors.
The vibrant colors and intricate designs of a Paithani saree perfectly complement the timeless style and handcrafted quality of Kolhapuri chappals, making them a popular combination for those who want to embrace traditional Indian fashion
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