The word ‘Mashru’ means ‘permitted’ in Arabic, and the Sanskrit variation ‘Misru’ means ‘mixed’. The age-old tradition of weaving Mashru is said to have originated in the 19th Century in West Asia and was popularised by the Muslim community settled there. The state of Gujarat has prominently dominated the market with its Mashru fabric production in Patan and Mandvi.

With a peculiar backstory, Mashru silk was the byproduct of the ban on wearing pure silk for Muslim men. The blend of cotton and silk is the unique factor that made Mashru acceptable to wear. Without disobeying religious customs and beliefs, Mashru provided the luxe look which appealed to the regal Muslims. Other communities were introduced to the fabric through the nomadic tribes of Kutch.

The fabric deemed as lawful was a rich craft abundantly woven in the 1900s for local elites and royals.

The traditional Aurangabad speciality of Himroo symbolises the weaving heritage of the region. Originated during the Reign of Mohammad Tughlaq, designs of the weave were influenced by the patterns of Ajanta- Ellora caves. When Tughlaq aspired to shift the capital back to Delhi, most craftsmen and weavers stayed back; many of which continued to supply Himroo stoles, shawls, and other royal household items.

The rich craftsmanship of Mashru and Himroo appealed to many craftsmen and artisans. Among these were also royal families.

The expert weavers of this craft have learnt the ropes from their ancestors. Both Mashru and Himroo are made with a mix of silk and cotton, wherein silk is used as the wrap and cotton is weaved for the weft.

For Mashru silk in the beginning stage, 63 yards of warp is used. Post the crafting; the fabric is washed and beaten down by wooden bars rigorously while still wet. The strings are coated with a paste of wheat flour to maintain the consistency and sheen of the material. It is then dyed in bright colours.

Likewise, Himroo is spun with wool or cotton with designs stitched of silk.