Zari zardozi originated in Persia at least 300 years ago, with the term meaning 'embroidering with gold threads'. During the rule of Mughals in the 17th Century, with the support of Emperor Akbar, zari zardozi, a Persian form of embroidery, attained popularity. However, a notable decline was seen when Aurangzeb stepped up to rule. This occurred mainly due to the lack of encouragement from the ruler to the artisans. With the high cost of raw materials and them being rare at the time, artisans could not keep up with the demand without backing from the royal patronage. This led to many artisans migrating from Delhi to states like Madhya Pradesh, Rajasthan, and Punjab.

Further, the onset of industrialisation later in the 18th and 19th Centuries set the embroidery back more. Only in 1947, after India achieved independence, efforts were made to uplift various handicrafts across the country, including zari zardozi.

Bhopal's Begums promoted this ancient embroidery by educating locals about it and inspiring people's interest. The begums themselves used 'batuas', which are small purses, to keep cash, snacks, and other personal items. Garments for the royal and rich were also made using zari zardozi on lush fabrics.

Zari’s making process has remained the same because it aptly follows ancient tradition. Four primary stages are involved in the production process, the initial one being designing. On a sheet of butter paper, the entire design is sketched using a pencil, and with the help of a needle, holes are made on the outline. Next, the design is traced onto the fabric by placing the butter paper on top of it while it is carefully spread on a flat table. Kerosene is mixed with the colour solution, and with the help of a small piece of cloth, the mixture is carefully dabbed over the butter paper. Effortlessly, the ink and design get transferred to the fabric, preparing it for what’s to come next.

A wooden frame called ‘adda’, usually made of bamboo or regular wood, is set up to stretch the fabric. Its size varies with the size of the fabric that will be embroidered, as it is supposed to stretch it tightly and hold it uniformly throughout. This makes it easier for artisans to sit around the frame and begin embroidering. 

Using a long needle and thread, artisans start embroidering over the imprinted designs. If required, embellishments are also embroidered into place by passing the thread over and under the fabric. A minimum of three to ten days is required to complete one design with the utmost delicacy. If more artisans are working together on one piece of fabric, it can take less time to complete a design. The embroidered pieces are finished by snipping off any excess threads spotted during the quality check and then used to make a variety of items for consumers worldwide.