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One of the few art forms being practised through its original technique, the Nandna Print is a colourful block print produced in the village of Tarapur in Neemuch and Umedpura. It is popularly worn by the women of the Bhil tribe while farming because it is very comfortable. The print features a gracefully aligned placement of different kinds of motifs and is usually done on dark colours like green and blue.
The origin of block printing in India can be traced as far back as 3000 BC, during the Indus Valley Civilization. Some historians are of the opinion that India may have been the country where textile printing originated in the first place. This opinion is due to archaeological evidence provided by Mohenjo Daro that proves the existence of complex technology for mordant dyeing since the second millennium BC. A French man, R. Fisher was the first to work on an elaborate study of fabrics before the 17th Century — he further distinguished them as block printed and resist-dyed. This study helped determine which fabrics were luxurious and those meant for the masses.
In Madhya Pradesh, block printing was first practised in remote villages like Dharampuri, Thikri, and Kukshi by a community called Chippas or Bhavsars. Colour printing was a technique done in Dhar by a group of Muslim printers called Rangrez. Both communities specifically catered to the Adivasi tribes, where raw and coarse cotton was typically used to produce clothing.
Later, on a mission to search for a place that could help them further hone their craft, the printers and dyers migrated and settled in the villages of Tarapur and Umedpura. Continuing on the belief of existing for over 300 years, the art of block printing grows and takes on modern, innovative and efficient characteristics to make it exclusive to Madhya Pradesh.
When it comes to the technique and production of the print, the wax-resist process is used in order to prevent the dye from going through to the fabric, creating a pattern. The base is an indigo dyed blue-black, and filler blocks are used to fill the white areas. Spacing between blocks is smaller towards the end and larger along the body.
Flora and fauna are not necessarily influencing factors in deciding which traditional motifs are to be used. The Chippa community’s nomadic lifestyle brought in many inspirations from all over India — mainly states like Uttar Pradesh, Rajasthan, Gujarat, and Punjab, to name a few. Wooden blocks used for printing were sourced from Pethapur, a place known for its eclectic designs. Hence, the traditional motifs are more inspired by nature rather than cultural influences.
A few motifs commonly seen in the Nandna print are champakali, which is inspired by the Champa (frangipani) flower and has a stem bent towards one side and leaves on either side. This motif, in particular, is worn by unmarried women in the Bhil tribe and symbolises fertility in other regions. Mirchi represents chilli, where the stem is printed in ochre and the central portion in red and white. Jalam Buta is a fruit-bearing tree with an upright stem with flowers and leaves on both sides.
Amba is one of the most used motifs where a mango tree with a bent stem holding branches on opposite ends is printed on a blue background. Women adorn skirts with this motif during weddings and a few months after birthing a child. Traditionally, it is gifted to a sister by her brother for Indian festivals like Rakshabandhan, Diwali, and Teej. Lastly, dola maru serves as a combination of two different motifs. Its name is based on the famous Rajasthani love story of the prince, Dola, and the princess, Maru.
The Nandna print’s thoroughly intact rustic look and iconic patterns have always been deeply admired. Even today, it has many admirers, but challenges have been raised concerning the time-consuming process.
One set of fabric (around 800 meters) takes over a month to finish, and skilled artisans with years of experience on hand are required. The tedious process of washing, dyeing, and printing several times requires dedication that most artisans lack nowadays. Along with this, the traditional techniques remain forgotten due to their labour and time-intensive nature. Even with the designs being altered as per trends and customer demands, there has been a sharp decline in the production volume of the Nandna print as the years passed. To overcome these challenges, amateur artisans are trained to practise more time-efficient printing techniques. This will help cope with the demand over time and not negatively impact artisans' livelihoods.
Today, only a handful of artisans and boutiques are left that create and sell authentic Nandna print fabrics. However, this long-preserved craft is aiming for a revival in the early future as families of traditional Nandna printers are working towards the common goal of creating space in the market for this beautiful fabric.
Among the famous print works of Madhya Pradesh and its nearby state Rajasthan such as Bagh, Batik and Ajrakh are some of the well-known patterns.
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