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Known to be an art of antiquity, the Batik print is made by using the technique of wax-resist dyeing on fabrics like cotton, silk, and georgette. Items like bed sheets, cushion covers, salwar suits, and dress materials are made for selling this unique print. The central production hub for this print is located in Bherugarh, a quaint town known for the infamous Kaal Bhairav temple and jail. Near the Shipra River, this town is only a few kilometres away from Ujjain.
Batik, derived from the Javanese word "ambatik", means 'to dot' or 'to write', and is a print that originated in India over 2000 years ago in the 1st Century AD. After that, traces of it could be found in countries like Japan, Egypt, Indonesia, Sri Lanka, Malaysia, Thailand and other regions in Asia.
While this craft was primarily done by the Khatris of Gujarat earlier, it transcended to Madhya Pradesh during the Mughal era. Since then, it has continued to gain popularity as a typical Malwa print.
Creating a one-of-a-kind batik print is a three-step process that involves waxing, dyeing, and dewaxing. Within these steps, there are sub-processes like preparation of the fabric, tracing motifs, and boiling the fabric.
The production process starts with preparing the fabric by rolling it onto a beam and cleaning it. It's bleached for four hours using a hypo-liquid to give it a 'white wash', after which it is washed and dried under the sun for a few hours. Then, the dried fabric is folded and sized according to the requirements of the final product, like bedsheets, dress materials, etc. Next comes the designing part, which begins with tracing the design on butter paper and piercing it. The pierced paper is then placed on the fabric, and the colour is spread on top - forming a dotted guideline for the artisan to begin working with wax.
A table especially designed with a bed of sand is used for the waxing step. This ensures that the melted beeswax (30%) and paraffin wax (70%) do not spread more than required and become sticky. Wax outlines are created with the help of ‘Tjanting’, a pen-like tool made from coconut husk.
Small cracks appear in the wax that are filled with colours that transform into the desired shades when put in an acid solution. By using wooden blocks dipped in melted wax, bold prints are finally added to the fabric. Once this step has been completed, the entire fabric is dyed with the base colour and washed in plain water.
Dewaxing is the next step in producing the batik print. The fabric is soaked in hot water to melt the wax off, and the patterns become bright, clear, and stand out. Sometimes, to give the traditional crushed look of batik, wax is poured once again, but instead of melting it, the wax is crushed off of the fabric.
Generally, the motifs on a batik print range from floral patterns to human figures but mostly depend on customers' demands. Vibrant colours like indigo, orange, red, yellow, lilac and mauve were often used.
With the ever-changing scenario of the world’s economy, customer demand has also continued to change. When the demand is too high to produce the batik print traditionally, artisans tend to opt for tjaping with a copper block. Tjap is essentially a metal block with copper strips that stamps designs onto the fabric quickly and efficiently. At times, designs are also printed onto the fabric with a modern screen printer and stencil. The non-usage of the traditional technique has led to a decline in its preservation as there are not many artisans left who know how to create the batik print origin using old methods. More locals need to be trained and educated to meet demand and provide the best quality conventionally.
On a more positive note, the market for batik print is booming, and more people are gaining an interest in it globally. Batik is a medium of artistic expression that has evolved and attained a lot of attention, which is why it’s still going strong to this day. From simple garments and bedsheets, modern batik is used for murals, wall-hangings, scarves, paintings, lehengas, sarees, table covers, and stationery.
Zari Embroidery, and Leheriya are some of the most renowned patterns that are also famous works of Madhya Pradesh and its neighbouring state Rajasthan.
Clothing and accessories featuring this print can be purchased from designers like Urvashi Kaur, Shrutkirti, Shreya Agarwal, Kiran Uttam Ghosh, and many more at Pernia’s Pop-Up Shop.
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