The Lehenga Choli ensemble gained popularity amongst Indian women during the Mughal era of the 10th century. Gradually, it became the royal attire of the Mughals. At the time, Mughal women wore Lehengas that consisted of a pyjama, patka and dupatta- similar to a kalidar and churidar ensemble. Though the Lehenga was first patronised in Northern India by the Mughals, who had strong cultural influence, it became the ultimate traditional costume for the women of Gujarat and Rajasthan. 

Later, during the 19th and 20th centuries, Lehengas were adapted in several forms according to the different cultural groups in various regions. 

While the native Lehengas of Gujarat featured embellished patchwork and mirror work, the ones made in Rajasthan were handcrafted with intricate Gota-Patti and Kundan work. 

As a result of changing trends and modern sensibilities, women have adopted various styles to spice up the look of a traditional Lehenga. 

Lehenga Sarees are the most popular variation of a Lehengas, worn widely across Southern India. A hybrid between saree and lehenga- this ensemble has been a traditional attire of Tamilian women for ages. As the silhouette got recognised by fashion enthusiasts, the saree lehenga became a game-changing silhouette in the arena of Indian fashion. Designers like Manish Malhotra, Tarun Tahiliani and Sabyasachi favour the silhouette and have created variations of it in their most famous bridal and couture collections.

A Fishtail Lehenga is another variation that stands as the Indian counterpart of a gown. This silhouette is created in a fit-and-flare style to highlight the natural curves; 

it is fitted to the waist and flared at the bottom. In this style, a statement blouse is paired with a pre-draped dupatta. This rendition is the most-coveted attire for cocktail parties and reception soirees. Designers like Dolly J, Not So Serious by Pallavi Mohan, Neeta Lulla and Tarun Tahiliani have made a serious case for showstopping Fishtail Lehengas, spotted on A-list celebs. 

Lehengas have been the most enamoured ensemble amongst Indian women and a significant aspect of Indian culture and history. Almost all the major Indian festivities are incomplete without Lehenga-clad women. The ensemble is also known as Ghagra-Choli in the regions of Gujarat and Rajasthan; this is the core traditional element of Navratri celebrations. Women wear Lehengas with big voluminous flares for 

dancing the night away to folk music. The journey of Lehengas from the late Mughal period to the current scenario signifies that they are not just a popular trend but a vital part of Indian fashion history.

When the Lehenga was initially introduced during the Mughal era, women wore it as a three-piece ensemble that consisted of a peshwaj(robe), pyjama (pants) under the skirt and a patka(sash) on the torso. Later, the Lehenga skirt symbolised a woman's marital status. The skirts were often customised to ankle-length to flaunt the bejewelled toes of married women. On the other hand, tribal women wore the Lehengas at knee-length.

 However, Lehengas faced a setback during the mid-1900s when freedom fighters replaced them with sarees during the Independence movement to make outfits less elaborate and easy to move in.

The 1990s witnessed the comeback of Lehengas prominently in Bollywood films and songs. Indian designers have been lining up iterations of the Lehenga ensemble on runways, season after season. After taking over major runways of prestigious Indian Fashion Weeks, every Indian bride started opting for Lehengas as their ultimate wedding outfit. Lehengas come in various cuts and designs that have replaced the old-school, traditional silhouettes. From ruffles to off-shoulders and experimental drapes- The classic Lehenga has come a long way to keep up with modern trends.

Bollywood is all about glamour and ostentatious style statements that give way to new trends. Ace actresses acing their dance moves in shimmering Lehengas can be seen in many famous Bollywood cult movies. Similarly, the late 1900s era of Bollywood revived the Lehenga ensemble, which instantly became a rage! From Hema Malini's mid-ankle Lehenga Cholis in Sholay to Yash Chopra's heroines clad in elaborate trails, this trend quickly caught on with fashion enthusiasts. Indian designers have started lining up iterations of the silhouette on runways, season after season.

Manish Malhotra is one of the most famous Bollywood designers who pioneered this costume for the leading ladies of Bollywood. From iconic dance numbers of Madhuri Dixit, Sri Devi, Karisma Kapoor and Kareena Kapoor Khan to the new-gen actresses like Janhvi Kapoor and Tara Sutaria- everybody can be spotted in a Lehenga, because it never goes out of fashion!