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Angrakha
The word, Angrakha translates to "body protector"; it is one of the oldest forms of stitched or tailored clothing that gained popularity during the Mughal era in India. Angrakhas were traditionally fabricated as an outer robe for men, with long sleeves and wrap-around closure with doris (strings). It is basically a type of kurta but more elaborate in terms of its cut and design.
History Of Angrakha
Tracing back the history of the Angrakha, it was a staple clothing for the members of Indian royalty during the eras of great Kings. This jacket-like long dress, tied on one shoulder is known for being the established uniform of Mughal emperor Akbar.
The Angrakha salwar kameez was always worn by both men and women. While it was the traditional wear for women, it became a symbol of royalty for the men.
Types of Angrakha
It originated in Rajasthan and became a popular choice of garb for the people of the state. Initially, Angrakhas were available in two varieties- one of shorter length and the other of longer length. The shorter version, known as "Kamari Angrakha" fastens around the kamar or, upper waist and is traditionally paired with a churidar or farshi salwar. This flared and flouncy dress is famous for being the dance costume of Rajasthani men, as it creates an eye-pleasing statement every time the dancer turns and twirls.
The garment remains a traditional costume for festivities to date, worn by the native men of Gujarat and Rajasthan, paired with a dhoti.
The longer knee-length Angrakhas, on the other hand, are traditionally paired with churidars and farshi pants. Tracing its history- army men generally donned this style to protect the body from heat and sun.
Occasions To Wear An Angrakha
Angrakha is a timeless silhouette that can either be dressed up or down. Though it started as traditional attire, the style can now be seen in fusion dresses, kurtas and tops. While heavily embellished, long Angrakhas are the perfect outfit for weddings and other festivities, shorter lengths of the style can be styled as tops with denim and trousers for more casual usage. Various adaptations of this style are now widely available in all kinds of fabrics and designs. Wear a basic cotton Angrakha Kurti to brunch with friends or, opt for a heavy silk number for an intimate wedding.
Design Elements
The Angrakha is a tailored garment that can be worn as a jacket. It features an overlapped opening, secured at the front with drawstrings or loops. The bottom half of a traditional Angrakha is flared, created with tailored pleats gathered around the waistline. Angrakhas worn by the royals in court were called "jama"- meaning, clothing. This vintage pattern was a long, flared coat- customized on luxe cotton, muslins, silk, or brocade and crafted with artisanal embroideries like zari and zardozi.
Shop Angrakha Kurtas
At Pernia's Pop-Up Shop, designer labels like Torani and Tarun Tahiliani bring to you the charm of the bygone era with an exclusive range of Angrakha Kurtas and Overlay Kurtas. Over the ages, the Angrakha style has been reinterpreted by Indian designers to suit modern women's preferences. Designer brands like- The Right Cut and Surendri by Yogesh Chaudhary have created stunning Angrakha kurta sets, with customizations and craftsmanship to reckon with the evolving choices of the women of today.