Originally from Marwar, this tribe is known as the ‘banjaras’ who move from one place to another, isolating and assimilating themselves. Historians believe the term, ‘Lambani’, is derived from ‘lavanah’, which means salt. This theory makes sense because the tribe is assumed to have been pastors or salt traders. It is said that they also traded wood, grains, pulses, and other products while moving from one place to another.

During the rule of the great Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb in the 17th Century, the Lambani tribe became an essential part of their armies. They mainly aided the military in transporting supplies and arms to South India during the war in Deccan. Once the war ended, the tribe settled in the south - working for the British and Tipu Sultan. Despite being in service to them, the Lambanis faced several problems.

For example, the lack of connected roads, laws, and criticism of their nomadic lifestyle. To cope with this, they separated and formed groups or ‘tandas’ (villages) named after the area they settled in. Although it became difficult to earn a living, men of the tribe worked as labourers, while the women chose to put together traditional dresses, bags, and leather articles. The hand-embroidered clothes are integrated as an essential part of the bridal trousseau packages. 

Ultimately, the efforts the tribe’s women put in led to the preservation of their rich culture and heritage through Lambani embroidery. Its vibrant and intricate nature has gained the attention of many across national and international borders.

Lambani’s production process begins with artisans selecting the base material for Lambani’s production. This is based solely on the pattern which will be stitched. Depending on the order and occasion, the pattern is also decided. Next, threads of contrasting colours are chosen in accordance with the base cloth, which is generally red or blue. The base cloth is treated and dyed by locals with expertise in chemical and vegetable dyes. 

Fourteen different kinds of stitches are used in Lambani embroidery, namely Gadri, Bhuriya, Kaudi, Kilan, Relo, Maki, Suryakanti Maki, Pote, Nakra, Jollya, Tera Dora, Vele, Kans, and Bakkya. 

Most of these stitching techniques keep to a geometric pattern consisting of various shapes and lines, such as triangles, squares, circles, rectangles, diagonal lines, and parallel lines. With the addition of alluring embellishments like beads, mirrors, coins, and cowrie shells, a cheerful arrangement of designs and colours is created. 

At times, women also stitch pieces of fabric onto the base material. This is known as ‘kangura’ appliqué patchwork, a time and labour-intensive task.