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Soof

An activity that is so ritualistic, clean, and therapeutic is that of Soof Embroidery. Migrated through the border, Soof is synonymous with ornate craftsmanship, skill and patience.

Tracing Origin

1971 saw the migration of many communities from across the border after the Indo-Pak War. Among them were the Sodha community and the Meghawaad Maaru community. They moved to Kutch and found their home in the villages of Zura, Pachcham and Mundra.

Ever since then, the women have spent their afternoons in intricate needlework to create beautiful geometric thread work designs. The word Soof originates from Saaf, which means cleanliness. It defines their handwork that is extremely clean and neat.

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How It’s Done

It starts with counting the warps and wefts of a basket woven fabric. The design is then mentally conceptualized by the craftswoman according to the fabric's thread count. They start working directly on the fabric without any drawing or reference lines. 

 

Using the Satin stitch, geometric patterns are embroidered onto the reverse side of the fabric. The complexity of the embroidery increases with diagonal patterns. Commonly, designs are done on the horizontal and vertical grid. 

Once it's made, the front side reveals an extremely neat and clean portrayal of geometric designs. So tidy is the hand embroidery that it is commonly mistaken for machine work.

 

Soof embroidery motifs is found on blouses, ghagras, bukanis worn by men over a turban, home decor like torans to adorn the doorways, and chaklas to decorate the walls.

Design Elements

The cloth is adorned with a series of geometric motifs made using triangles. Triangles are the base shape of this creative work. Designs are done on the reverse side of the fabric. A series of triangles is embroidered to create peacocks, mandalas, mangoes, and other traditional motifs.

 

The handicraft is done with threads of various colours, yet, the most commonly seen colour palette is deep reds, greens and black.

 

Silk threads are used for embroidery. It is said the thinner the thread used, the better the quality of work.

Soof Today

Today Soof embroidery finds itself in the dying crafts list of the country. Many young designers are now trying to revive the art of Soof. 

 

Soof is a traditional sweet from Gujarat, India that is typically made during festivals and celebrations, and it is often served alongside traditional embroidery work such as phulkari.

Image Credits

Garland Magazine | Gujarat Tourism | Asia inch | Direct Create | Not Just a Shopper | The Typecraft Initiative | Dr. Anshu Blog | Varso | Facebook- Soof Embroidery | Paramparika Karigar | Worldorgs | Save Jaypore