History dates back to the Vedic Era; women wore an antariya and an uttariya. All those years ago, female costumes were studied to be more radical, rather bare. Later, we picked on the concept of lehenga choli from the Mughal influence. 

The western states adapted to that to form an archetype of their own. In Gujarat, it was called the Chaniya Choli.

A chaniya is differentiated from a ghagra based on its length. A ghagra is a full-length skirt, whereas a chaniya hems in between the knee and calf.

There are different types of chaniya cholis but traditional chaniya choli holds canvas to intricate tribal embroideries of Gujarat such as Rabari work, Heer Bharat and Abla or Mirror work. Bandhani chaniyas are also a sight to savour as one twirls around in the joy of colour and design. 

Bright, cheerful and vibrant defines the colour palette that suits traditional chaniya choli styles. The colours used are usually reds, greens, yellows and black. Each colour has some reasoning behind its use that associates it to culture and tradition. Reds symbolise brides and newly-weds, whereas yellow is a portrayal of motherhood. 

Cuts vary from deep necks to barebacks and full sleeves to longer centre lengths.

Embroidery is done according to the occasion it is to be worn at for different types of chaniya cholis. Lighter, everyday wear Chaniyas see the intricacy of detail near the hem in the form of borders or equidistant single motifs forming a repeat pattern all around. Heavier chaniyas are worn during festivities and weddings and detailed through every warp and weft of the skirt.

A choli is usually embroidered. Its fabric colour is a single tone picked, usually from the multicoloured chaniya. 

An oodhni or dupatta is usually paired with the chaniya choli to complete the look. It is made similar to the chaniya in terms of colour for an aesthetic appeal.