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Aari
Storytelling through threads and beads is what Aari Embroidery entails. A series of unbroken stitches and weaving patterns on luscious silk spreads, the centuries-old Aari is adorned on special occasions.
Tracing Origin
The origins of Aari embroidery work travel through Barabanki in Uttar Pradesh to Kutch and other parts of Gujarat. The embroidery saw its fame and popularity through the Mochi or cobbler community of the region and soon became popular among the royals of Gujarat.
Tambour is known to be the western name for this embroidery which was adapted by the Portuguese and French. Aari gets its name from the needle that is used to do the embroidery, called an Aar.
How It’s Done
Let's understand what Aari work is and how it is done. The elaborate craftsmanship of Aari work is indeed a tedious process. It all starts by drawing the designs freehand on the fabric. The fabric is held tight and secured for easy accessibility on a Khatla, also known as a tambour. After the drawing of the design is done, the artisan starts the embroidery process using the Aar or the hook needle.
In one hand, the thread is held at the reverse of the fabric, in the other, the aari needle is held. The needle is pierced through the material, bringing the thread up as the needle twists and comes back up. The needle is pierced into the cloth at a further distance, and the steps are repeated. This is how Aari embroidery technique works.
Design Elements
Inspiration for motifs came from the surroundings of the Mochi community. The designs are a representation of nature and wildlife, with an influence of Mughal gardens and architecture. Persian influence is evident with the use of peacocks and flowers as their motifs. The ripple effects are said to be inspired by the dunes of the Thar Desert.
A colourful embroidery form, threads and beads of every colour are used in this craft. A lacy finish is given to the design by doing the embroidery with the same colour of the cloth.
A combination of an intricate chain stitch and varied sizes of beads is what makes Aari embroidery stand out today.
Aari Today
Aari work is known to be one of the most tedious forms of hand embroidery. Today with the help of technological inventions, the process has become simpler and faster. It is seen on silhouettes of sarees, kurtis and more and also known by everyone what Aari work is and its importance.
Aari is a type of embroidery that utilizes a hooked needle to create intricate and delicate designs, often incorporating Zari Zardoni embroidery, which is a technique that uses metallic threads to add shimmer and shine to the finished piece.
Image Credits
Authindia | Exporters India | India Map | Indianetzone | Rug Rabbit | Strand of Silk | Wikipedia | Worlegram