Kunbi

It is not just the serene landscape of Goa that is exhilarating but also its unique textiles that deserve special recognition. For centuries, Goa has been under diverse cultural influences – especially under the Portuguese rule that heavily influenced Goans in terms of their food, clothing, art, and architecture; the existence of tribal groups in the area, just adds more richness to it. The Kunbi tribe is undoubtedly the oldest known community, who settled in Goa even before the Portuguese came. The kunbi are an integral part of Goa’s history and tribal population. It is their tribal art, culture and food that contributes and adds more to Goa’s essence. These tribal arts come alive during different festivals and occasions, like the Intruz – a five-day carnival, where a number of dance and drama performances are performed by the villagers. The folk dance, music, and unique processions that take place during such festivals are truly a cultural delight. Similarly, the Kunbi Saree is a major aspect of Kunbi Crafts that became an unforgettable inspiration for late Goan designer, Wendell Rodricks. These hand-woven checkered sarees are worn by the Kunbi women, who are majority agriculturalists. With time and recognition from designers like Rodricks himself, the saree grew in popularity and is now regarded as a prime Goan textile.

Kunbi Today

The kunbi saree has not always had a pleasant journey of its own. The sarees were heavily worn before the Portuguese invasion of Goa but, soon the influence of the new foreign rulers changed the market, the people and their tastes. As a result, kunbi sarees and kashtis faced a considerable downfall during that era and it is not after the Portuguese left Goa- much later in 1960, after those indigenous Goan textiles were revived. 

Designer Wendell Rodricks and the Government of Goa, both play important roles in the revival of this fabric in recent times. In an interview, Rodrick explains how he modernized the kunbi saree, by omitting the heavy jacquard border and experimenting with trending pastel shades, while also keeping its originality alive. After the textile made an appearance on the ramps, through Rodrick’s collection – people finally understood and recognized the age-old Indian textile, which was hiding away in the villages of Goa. 

Kunbi is an indigenous community of farmers in the Indian state of Maharashtra, known for their traditional attire and cultural practices, while the Kullu shawl is a type of woolen shawl woven in the Kullu district of the northern Indian state of Himachal Pradesh.