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Dhotis

Dhotis

A plain piece of fabric draped and wrapped in several ways- Indian Dhotis are proof that skirts were never meant for only women! The most iconic representation of the Dhoti is seen in the figure of Mahatma Gandhi. This South Asian garment is worn predominantly by men of the Indian sub-continent. A dhoti or veshti or chaadra is a long piece of fabric, predominantly cotton- wrapped around the waist. This is not just a piece of garment but a whole lifestyle. The word “dhoti” translates to washed, which simply refers to a clean, fresh piece of clothing worn on a daily basis. It is an extremely simple silhouette- draped and unstitched. A traditional dhoti has no embellishments on it; in some communities, they have a simple golden or woven border.

History Of The Dhoti

The history of Dhotis goes way far back and is difficult to pinpoint. Evidence suggests that draped trousers were worn during the Indus valley civilization and the Vedic Period- by Rishis and Munis. In ancient India, Dhoti was a respected item of clothing worn by men of higher caste or status. Men who wore Dhotis were to be respected and looked up to. 

 

Its role in Gandhi's Swadeshi Movement still remains a significant part of history that led to India's freedom. Simple handspun khadi cotton dhotis- both sustainable and local, were made. Due to its simplicity, the garment was adapted as a daily-wear item garment before readymade trousers became popular, and it still remains functional to date. 

Evolution Of The Dhoti

Dhotis saw a surge in interest in correspondence to their portrayal in mainstream cinema. The trend of wearing dhotis was revived in the 1970s, with Rajesh Khanna's white dhotis and kurta worn for Amar Prem, as inspiration and later on with other films. Earlier, Dhotis were strictly restricted to men's wear but, with modern fashion taking on the silhouette, ready-made dhoti pants have become a trend for women as 

well. Thanks to its evolution, pre-draped, elastic dhotis are widely available now to make the traditional outfit more wearable and practical. 

Significance & Symbolism

Dhoti originated as a clean/washed garment, defining purity. It is the garment of choice for priests and occasions of religious/spiritual significance. Due to similar reasons, it is highly favoured by politicians as attire to signify purity and public service. Dhotis play an important role in Indian religion and mythology. 

Earlier men of respectable statuses like Gurus, Rishis and Munis wore dhotis. Presently, they are worn on special and religious occasions as a customary tradition. 

Dhotis In Bollywood

In modern times, films like Amir Khan’s Lagaan (2001) and Mangal Paandey (2005), Shah Rukh Khan’s Devdaas (2002) and Asoka (2001) brought Dhotis into mainstream media, making it a popular choice 

among young Indian men, again. However, Ben Kingsley’s portrayal in and of Gandhi, which received critical acclaim worldwide, took the Dhoti to international shores.

Draping Styles

The garment is a long rectangular piece of fabric, approximately 4.5 meters long. It is the draping technique that makes it a "Dhoti". The look of the Dhoti Style depends on the regional and cultural differences. For example, a Dhoti from Bengal has pleats, called Kunchi in the front. The wearer can hold and lift the extended part of the drape. This attire was popular amongst the aristocrats and zamindars 

of old Bengal. In the southern part of India, dhoti draping has no pleats whereas, a Punjabi chaadra has pleats in the front, tightly tucked at the back. In India, a simple piece of cloth is draped in varied and diverse ways, making it all the more fascinating.