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Churidar
Worn with traditional kurtas by both men & women, churidars have been a salient piece of garment in the history of Indian fashion. The Churidar or Chudidar is a unisex south Asian garment. Popularly worn in North India and Pakistan, it is a fitted bottom (often referred to as Pajamas) that is tight all the way to the ankle, highlighting the silhouette of the leg. They are longer than the leg and the excess fabric gathers at the bottom, which is tightly secured around the ankle with a closure. They are worn with kurtas and dupattas by women and kurtas or sherwanis by men.
History Of The Churidar
The Churidar is similar to the salwar, but, they differ in their fits. Salwars are wide at the hip and more spaced out whereas, churidars are fitted throughout the leg length of the leg (like leggings). It gathers around the wearer's ankle to resemble a stack of bangles, hence the name ‘churidar’ (Churi or, Chudi in
Hindi means, bangles). It is believed that it used to be worn with a bodice and transparent long skirt. However, now it is typically worn with a kurta.
Churidars In Bollywood
The 60s - 70s saw Bollywood actresses like Sadhana donning churidars and kurtas in films like Waqt and Anita. Costume designer Bhanu Athiya created new silhouettes inspired by western cuts, making the kurtas more tailored and churidars more fitted. Now it is a favourite of celebrities like Vidya Balan,
Kareena Kapoor, Aishwariya Rai Bachchan, and many others. One of the most iconic looks is Kangana Ranaut’s yellow churidar kurta outfit from Queen.
Evolution Of The Churidar
The churidar started out as an interchangeable choice between Salwars/Patialas for regular (mid-thigh length) kurtas. Owing to their Mughal heritage, churidar became the bottoms of choice for the long, flared style of kurtas. The early 2000s saw the trend of shorter kurta styles paired with churidars and its adaptation to ‘churidar leggings’- made of lycra. Its rise in popularity among south Asian women in modern times is mainly due to its versatility and comfort. As times changed, women needed clothing
that was flexible and not too elaborate- Unlike the complicated draped garments like sarees, young Indian women turned to churidars styles as comfortable and appropriate clothing.
Significance & Symbolism
The significance of the churidar can be traced back to Mughal India when the Kings wore them under elaborate kurtas and sherwanis, and court dancers wore them under their dancing skirts for dignity; these bottoms were made for convenience. Wearing fitted churidar bottoms made it easier for the
Kings and warriors to get on horses and fight in battles. In regions of 1900s Pakistan, churidars were also worn under kurtas or salwar kameez.