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Bhagalpuri silk, famously known as 'Tussar silk', is produced in the Bhagalpur district of Bihar, which is also the 'silk city' of the country. It is of exceptional quality with very unique and distinctive adaptability and flexibility. This fine silk material is also considered the 'queen of all fabrics' and has gained popularity through it. Each silk fibre is filled to the brim with India's cultural diversity, making it an elegant representation of its history and culture. In a deep gold shade, this wild silk is perfect for summers with its lightness and comfort.
The exact origin of the silk is not traceable, however, its existence was noted when the first European merchants visited India and inspected the craft after the 16th Century. These merchants mentioned four kinds of Tussar fabrics, all of which were mixed with cotton to create special silk.
Other literary sources have recorded that the emergence of Tussar silk can be linked to the Vedic period between 1500 to 500 BCE. However, it was later learned that people began to appreciate this silk during the Maurya age and recognize it as a charming craft, earning national and international recognition as the years continued to pass.
To make Tussar silk, Antheraea silkworms that live in the wild and feed on plants like Jamun and oak are used. Since these silkworms are reared naturally out in the open, the silk is known as 'wild.'
The process begins with reeling silk, where the cocoons are boiled in a mixture of water and soda for anywhere between half an hour to two hours. While this boils, the vessel is covered with a heavy lid to prevent the cocoons from escaping. Once appropriately boiled for a sufficient amount of time, the strands of silk are separated onto bamboo spools.
Next, the bamboo spools are transformed into a loosely-coiled length of thread or yarn called 'skein.' After they’re completely dried, the skeins are reeled on bobbins to make the yarn stronger and thick. After this, the dyeing process takes place if deemed necessary. Generally, natural dyes and pigments are used with different mordants for each colour. Dyeing begins with extracting the pigment from the plant by boiling it in plain water. This is then strained, and the dye is applied to the skeins. Sometimes, the skeins are soaked in an acidic solution to secure the colour onto the yarn. The last step in the dyeing process simply involves washing the skeins with reetha powder and removing the excess dye.
The last step of the production process is weaving. To begin with, the weft and warp are spun to meet the specifications provided by designers or customers. Yarn is wrapped around big spools on a rack called 'creel.' From its position on the rack, the yarn is loosened onto the warp beam, which is mounted at the rear, and the warp yarns are carried to the cloth roll (a cylinder), which is at the front of the loom. Maintained on the loom frame between two cloth reels, the warp yarns are ready to be latticed with the weft yarns to supply the woven silk fabric.
Throughout weaving, four other steps are essential — shedding, drawing in, picking, and beating.
Shedding is completed with a series of wires (heddle) attached to rectangular frames known as harnesses. As each warp yarn enters through the beam, it must pass between an opening between the wires. Drawing refers to bringing each warp yarn through the eye of the heddle and raising or lowering some sets of wires to be more accommodating. Crossing weft yarns between the shed, which is a temporary separation between the warp yarns, is known as picking. Finally, all warp yarns pass through an opening in a separate loom frame that looks like a comb. As each step is completed, the woven fabric is taken off the beam, washed with water, and spread out evenly for drying.
Once the fabric has dried, it is sprayed uniformly with water, folded, and hammered using a tool called 'kundi.' These additional procedures set the weave correctly, ensuring that the fabric is ready to be moulded into beautifully attractive garments.
Globally, the Tussar silk has made its way into people's hearts with its cultural diversity and superior quality that sets it aside from other kinds of fabric.
Similar to the circumstances other handicrafts of India have gone through, this craft form suffered greatly with its fading demand. The reason for this was mainly the government's affairs that extended their hands into social situations. Making a comeback after a pause of a considerably long time interval, weavers of this silk strived to make it a 'must-have' piece of everyone's wardrobe. Despite the government's early involvement in its fading demand, the state and central governments and NGOs worked hard to bring back the infamous Bhagalpuri silk fabric into the competitive textiles industry and market. Bhagalpuri Silk is a type of silk fabric produced in Bhagalpur, Bihar, India, known for its lustrous texture and durability, and is made from eri silk, tussar silk, and mulberry silk, often adorned with intricate Madhubani designs.
This silk continues to become increasingly popular due to being environment-friendly. It is considered to be so because of the limited number of silkworms used during its production. Hence, it is also referred to as a 'peace silk.' Designers from the world's biggest fashion hubs like Milan, London, and Paris have extended offers to the local artisans of Bihar to produce silk, especially for their designs.
Garments made of this material were previously limited to Bhagalpuri silk sarees, but have now expanded towards bedspreads, curtains, Kurtis, tops, shawls, etc. This development has contributed exponentially to the growth of Bhagalpuri silk's prevalence.
Apparel made with the alluring Bhagalpuri silk fabric can be bought from Indian designers like Suruchi Parakh, Punit Balana, Avni Bhuva, Chaturbhuj Das, Urvashi Kaur, Payal Singhal, Architha Narayanam, Pratima Pandey, Priya Agarwal, Nilesh Parashar and many more at Pernia's Pop-Up Shop.
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