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Muga Silk
Silk production has been practised in Assam since time immemorial and continues to be one of the most thriving industries of the state. Among the three main types of Silks produced here – Muga, Eri, and Mulberry (Pat) – using conventional processes, Muga is best known for its durability and naturally-occurring Golden tinge. Muga silk is a by-product of the Antheraea assamensis silkworm, which is native to Assam. It is produced in Goalpara, Udalguri, Sualkuchi, Jorhat, Lakhimpur, Tinsukia, Sibsagar, Dibrugarh, and Golaghat.
Tracing Its Origin
Known as the golden treasure of Assam, Muga silk is only produced in this Indian state and nowhere else in the world. Many conflicting records state that the production of Muga silk can be traced back to the period between 1228 to 1828, amid the reign of Ahom. The usage of Muga silk in one’s wardrobe was made mandatory for the royals and the elite, which included higher officials.
The royals supervised several looms of Muga Silk, and they were known as Rajaghoria looms.
How It's Made
To produce one kilogram of raw Muga silk, more than 4500 silkworm cocoons are needed. A traditional tool called ‘bhir’ is used to reel it traditionally, and two people must make at least 60 to 80 grams of silk daily. In order to produce more silk, a modern-day machine created by the Central Silk Technological Research Institute (CSTRI) is recommended to use for reeling welt yarn.
For weaving Muga silk, a fly shuttle loom is typically used, and a jacquard is used for making designs.
Design Elements
Famous for its durable nature and naturally occurring golden colour, their larvae are fed som and sualu leaves, preparing them forsilk extractionk. This silk’s glossy texture gets better each time it is washed, and more often than not, the silk outlives its owner.
The silk’s natural colour, albeit golden, is sometimes dyed into other colours or embroidered to add colours to appeal to buyers. Motifs on this silk range from jappi (traditional Assamese topi), kabutar (pigeons), and miri gos butta (small tree designs). These designs are always geometrical, which has not changed throughout the years.
Muga Silk Today
Earlier, the Muga silk was reserved for the state’s royals, but over time, it has transformed into a must-have for traditional weddings and other special occasions. Despite its limited usage, a variety of items like scarves, shawls, quilts, upholstery, mekhela chador (traditional Assamese attire), sarees, kurtas, and bridal wear are made with this silk.
Muga silk is a luxurious silk fabric that originates from the Assam region of India and is known for its natural golden color and durability, while Apatani, Pat silk, Eri silk, and Kosa silk are other types of silk fabrics that are also produced in India, each with their unique features and characteristics.
Image Credits
Assam Pat Silk Saree | Getkrat | Indiamart | Meesho | Outlook India | Olee Fashion | Poppyapps | Silkalay | Weaver Story | Wikipedia