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Sounds of rustling silk and sights of intricate weaving are familiar to everyone's senses in the town of Uppada. An eminent geographical indication, Uppada pattu sarees find their home in the state of Andhra Pradesh.
Uppada pattu sarees trace their roots to the heritage craftsmanship of Jamdani weaving, with its origin traced back to 300 years ago in Bangladesh. Post the industrial revolution, Jamdani weaving saw a decline. That is when the artisans of Andhra Pradesh were introduced to the techniques of Jamdani. They created an amalgamation of their own by applying the techniques to designs and aesthetics local to the place leading to the birth of the geographically identified creation of Uppada Pattu sarees.
Uppada Pattu Sarees are distinctive saree and garment materials woven in Uppada, Andhra Pradesh's East Godavari district. It is close to Kakinada, a part of the East Godavari district in Andhra Pradesh.
The intricacy and tedious labour are synonymous with every woven textile in the country. Similar is the story of Uppada Pattu Sarees. A labour and time-intensive process, it takes somewhere from 10-60 days for its making, with around 10 hours of labour each day.
The process starts with creating a blueprint of the weave on graph paper first. The length and breadth count of threads is 100 in the weaving process. Two weavers work together on a single loom to create ornate patterns with zari.
The intertwining of threads, knotting and adding the zari wherever the design demands is a process that requires immense concentration and dedication. This skill is developed through the years by master artisans.
In Uppada, there is a sole community known as Padmasalis engaged in the weaving of these sarees, which have artistic zari work in their beautiful designs. A unique synthesis of Persian and Muslim designs inspired by the stories of the Indian sub-continent is what makes up for the designs in the Uppada pattu saree. Earlier, only familiar motifs such as paisley, flowers, leaves, and creepers were used, but now with modernization comes a slight revamp in the motifs.
Today, Uppada Pattu is seen in more than sarees. It is available in dress materials and stoles. Uppada Pattu is a traditional handwoven silk saree from Andhra Pradesh, known for its rich dharnavarnam colors and intricate Banjara needlework, while Kanchi Cotton sarees are also popular in the region.
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