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Mangalagiri

Mangalagiri

A creation of woven wonders, the holy town of Guntur is witness to the existence of the Mangalagiri Sarees and textiles. Mangalagiri is another of the many Indian textiles that undergo a tedious process in their creation.

Tracing Origin

Dating back to 500 years ago since its existence, around 5000 weavers are practicing this craftsmanship today. Mangalagiri derives its name from the town of Mangalagiri, which is 12 kilometers from Vijayawada. The holy town of Mangalagiri is known for its religious importance and is home to many pilgrims who are on a journey toward seeking. 

As for every temple in the sub-continent, a token was to be submitted before the idol of the Lord at the temple, which is believed to be the reason for the existence of the Mangalagiri weave. 

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How It’s Done

The process starts with acquiring raw- materials such as pure cotton yarn, silver, and gold Zari, synthetic and natural dyes, and a few chemicals needed for dyeing. The cotton yarns are cleaned off impurities and soaked overnight to prepare their canvas for dyeing. The yarns are then bleached to get a white colour or dyed with VAT dyes. Post dyeing it, excess dyes are removed. The yarns are then ready for Pre-Loom procedures.

The yarns are warped using a charkha, shift looms, and bobbins. The weft is made using a Pirn. After the warp and weft are ready, they are starched to mark their readiness for weaving. The weaving process kickstarts with pit looms which are the reason behind the sarees' durability and longevity. The weavers are able to apply an immense amount of force which results in smaller gaps between the weaves. After weaving, the saree is ready to be sold.

Design Elements

Synonymous with durability, the Mangalagiri cotton sarees from Andhra Pradesh are a sight of minimal designs and solid colors, as the focus of the weavers was aligned towards weaving a fabric that is robust and can provide longevity, while the parts of the saree covering the body are left plain without any design; the Mangalagiri pallu has global recognition for having a Nizam border with Zari, tribal designs with accents of Zari and small checks, and the pallu (edge) or the saree borders are visible on both the top and bottom sides.

Mangalagiri Today

Today, Mangalagiri is considered more of a weave than a saree, a variety of different ensembles are made using this weave. From Kurtis to shawls and scarfs, the masses today enjoy this long-lasting textile in many ways. The textile has a positive global appeal owing to its simplicity, minimalism, wearability, and durability.

 

Venkatagiri sarees are known for their intricate gold zari work, while Kanchi Cotton sarees are known for their soft and breathable cotton fabric, and Mangalgiri cotton sarees are famous for their simplicity and elegance, handwoven with a distinctive 'nizam border'.

Image Credits

Avishya | D’Source | Elegant Fashion Wear | Esamskriti | Fawshiol.a | Gaatha | Issuu | Meghams | Mira | Outlook India | Saree Utsav | Sundari Silks | Swarajya | TVIS and Bliss | Unnati Silks | Vikaboutique