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Dharmavaram Saree
Born in a small village that goes by the same name - in the Anantapur district of Andhra Pradesh, Dharmavaram pattu sarees are rich handwoven textiles. These silk sarees have been an important part of the silk industry in India. Especially in the southern regions, the dharmavaram sarees and pavadas, a type of long skirt - are fundamental parts of traditional clothing. Known for their luxurious look and excellent woven texture, these sarees are adorned with flora and fauna motifs. In the southern part of India lies a great market of traditional silk sarees and the dharmavaram has surely made its well-deserved place in it! This saree plays a vital role in any religious ceremony or customary function.
Tracing Its Origin
History of these sarees go back approximately 120 years. The name "Dharmavaram" was given by the man, who founded this small town, "Kriya Shakti Vodavaru Swamy", after his mother- "Dharamambai" in the year 1153 A.D. However, it took as long as the 19th century for the silk industry of this region to pick up and become a prominent market.
Dharmavaram sarees are unique in more than one way; they are only and only made of fine quality mulberry silk. It is said that the emergence of silk textiles in this region began, due to the abundance of mulberry trees here.
Naturally, it made for a huge breeding ground for wild silkworms. Initially, these sarees were produced for weddings, and that tradition has carried on till date. When it comes to weddings, dharmavaram silks are a leading choice.
How It’s Done
The brilliant quality of these sarees is not easy to attain. A single saree takes as long as eight days to finish and requires the labour of at least two weavers. Though it may seem like they are simply woven on pit looms, the actual process is much more complex. It is because several steps have to be perfected before the weaving process starts.
The first step starts by collecting the cocoons from the sericulture farms. After that, they are carefully boiled in steam to acquire the actual yarns. But these yarns come with a lot of natural gum and so, they are thoroughly washed with soap and soda ash. Following this step, the clean yarns are plied to get a uniform texture. Once the desired texture is attained,
the most important step begins. i.e., dyeing. After the yarns have been delicately hand-dyed and dried, weaving on the pit loom finally starts. Conventionally, these sarees are woven in the interlock-weft method and the jacquard method, which includes printing motifs with a computer.
Design Elements
Dharmavaram sarees are a traditional textile art form from Andhra Pradesh, known for their unique feature of using two different shades or colours that give a dainty double-tone effect, while a broad solid coloured border with gold zari accentuates the rich look of the sarees and the pallu is an extension of the border itself, of the same colour and ornate motifs woven with gold; the most common designs include elements of religious importance, like peacocks, the Brahma kamal flower used in pujas, elephants and temple designs, and old paintings.
Traditionally, these sarees were only made in bridal colours like red and yellow, but with increasing market demand, weavers have now included all types of colour variations.
Variations Of Dharmavaram Sarees
As the rule of the trade goes, increased demand equals increased production and variety. While an authentic dharmavaram saree or, paavada is made on handlooms and takes eight days to complete- there is the other variety., which is the machine-made one. Since producing an original version of the textile is time-consuming and expensive, machine-made dupes are sold to satisfy consumer demands with amplified sales.
The machine-made ones are very near to the original ones, in terms of looks. But the difference is evident in the fabric quality and feel and the designs that are printed and not woven. This is plainly because manual labour costs more and machine-made ones are eliminated from any such labour to cut down the prices. However, nothing can beat the authenticity of a handmade textile that exudes its weavers' hard-earned love and labour.
Dharmavaram saree, Uppada pattu and Kanchi cotton saree are three of the most popular types of sarees in India. They are known for their intricate designs, luxurious fabrics, and timeless elegance.
Shop Dharmavaram Sarees
There was no way this heritage textile could be omitted at Pernia's Pop-Up Shop and so, AHARIN, India presents a perfect collection of the same that is available on the website. Founded by the brilliant designer, Prashansa Saha, it has the perfect collection of the most gorgeous dharmavaram sarees.
The muted and pastel shades ooze out summer-wedding energy!
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