The history of Anarkali is based on a fascinating tale from the Mughal era. The ancient legend of the courtesan's affair with Prince Salim in Mughal Emperor, Akbar's court followed a romantic and tragic trajectory. As their love story became immortalised, the Anarkali ensemble not only became a significant part of history but also, a timeless mainstay in the wardrobe of Indian women. 

This costume was popularly worn by the court dancers, who performed a dance form called mujra, for Kings and courtiers. Owing to this, they were initially known as “mujra dresses.” However, the costume’s name was changed later to pay homage to Anarkali, who was supposedly buried alive for daring to fall in love with the Prince.

Anarkali is a traditional South Asian dress style that consists of a long frock-style top and a slim-fitting bottom, known as a churidar or sharara. The Anarkali ensemble is tailored with a tightly fitted yoke that goes uptill the waist. An expansively flared gher is formed by gathering the fabric around the waistline; The more the gathers, the larger the circumference and drama of the flare. This was Initially tailored in such a way to create drama when the dancers performed. Anarkalis are 

typically customized on timeless cotton, silks, velvet, and brocade fabrics with a good fall or, drape. Some salient Mughal culture-inspired features rendered on a classic Anarkali are hand-block prints, gold thread work, zardozi, and stone embellishments.

The Jacket-style Anarkali is the most coveted rendition of the classic silhouette. The opulently flared garment is layered with a structured jacket or a koti -featuring intricate embroideries. A vintage Mughal interpretation of this would have a short fitted jacket, worn over the bodice- with prints and embroidery. 

A fusion interpretation of the gown resulted in a voluminous floor-length Anarkali-Gown, which needs no bottom wear, such as the churidar. This style has won the spotlight on runways, presented by famous designers. Some good costumes of similar style were spotted on Deepika Padukone in the film "Bajirao Mastani," designed by Anju Modi.  

Besides pre-draped dupattas, designers have also incorporated the Anarkalis with a flowing cape as a layering piece creating a cutting-edge fit, the Cape- Anarkali. 

Tiered Anarkalis are also commonly seen, designed with two or more layers of different length fabrics. When these pieces of fabric are stitched together, it gives a layered effect that increases the volume of the bottom half of the dress.

The Anarkali ensemble is tailored with a tightly fitted bodice and expansively flared Kalidars or pleats at the bottom; this dress pattern was meant to make a dramatic statement with the dancer's turns and twirls. This costume of Mughal courtesans thus represents the elegance of classical dance. As the name, “Anarkali” borrows inspiration from the famous dancer at Emperor Akbar's court and her love story with  

Prince Salim, the ensemble proves to be a symbol of rich  Mughal history and forbidden love. The tale of Anarkali and its influence on fashion, centuries after the incident, is a legend for more ages to come.

Bollywood significantly impacted the adaptation of Anarkali and Prince Salim's love story in the film “Mughal-e-Azam”. When the story was first depicted on the screens of Indian cinema- an iconic veteran actress, Madhubala, portrayed the role of Anarkali by adorning the signature ensemble and became an of old Bengal. In the southern part of India, dhoti draping has no pleats whereas,

a Punjabi chaadra has pleats in the front, tightly tucked at the back. In India, a simple piece of cloth is draped in varied and diverse ways, making it all the more fascinating.

Due to ever-evolving fashion trends, the Anarkali has undergone a massive metamorphosis. Ancient Anarkali styles were layered with a fitted koti jacket to accentuate the torso, cut out of velvet or silk with a plunging neckline and embroidered accents. This pattern can still be found in some revivalist collections by designers like Ritu Kumar, Sabyasachi, and Tarun Tahiliani. 

Short-length Anarkalis have also gained popularity, paired on top of shararas and ghararas. Often, a skirt is worn beneath the Anarkali for added flare and volume. The quintessential silk Anarkali however, continues to be a part of every festive wardrobe. From social gatherings to weddings and parties, this ensemble promises the most desirable charm to any woman.

Discover the latest styles from the best designers across the country, as the range of designer Anarkali suits, is innumerable- at Pernia’s Pop-Up Shop. Twirl in a lush floral Anarkali set by label Petticoat Lane, 

or opt for a light and flowy block print set from Karaj Jaipur. But for a more glamorous look, Mahima Mahajan’s designs are the perfect pick.