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Meenakari Necklaces
Meenakari necklaces are an expression of poetry in motion. From celebrities to citizens, several women express themself through bold and beautiful Meenakari necklaces. It has become a fashion statement in Bollywood films, TV serials, and weddings. Every Meenakari necklace boasts intricate enamel work decorated with colours and patterns. The exquisite art form that originated in the ancient Persian civilisation has subsequently flourished and become a part of India’s rich cultural heritage. Some historians have traced the beginning of this art form to the ancient Parthian and Sassanid eras of Persia around 247 BC. It grew in importance and still prevails in modern Isfahan, Iran. Meenakari, the traditional art form, travelled from Persia to India sometime during the 16th century. It was Mogul Emperor Akbar who was instrumental in introducing Meenakari to India. He commissioned mina artisans to decorate walls, ceilings and the thrones of his palaces with colourful mina work. Subsequently, at the behest of one of his wives, the artisans created the first Meenakari necklace with fine enamel work. However, it was Raja Man Singh of Amber, the General of the Mogul emperor, who got more skilled workers from Lahore to promote mogul culture and tradition and the art of making Meenakari necklaces, earrings, bangles, bracelets, and rings. Today, Meenakars are practising this art form in different parts of India. Though the craft is old and established, regional Meenakari necklaces may slightly differ in style, design or colour. For example, in Varanasi in Uttar Pradesh, you will find more rose-pink-coloured (gulabi) Meenakari necklaces, whereas in Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh, more blue and green coloured. Elaborate Meenakari on a base of gold and Kundan is unique to Bikaner and Jaipur. Nathdwara, Bikaner and Udaipur are famous for silver Meenakari. Gujarat and West Bengal also have their own style of Meenakari necklaces. The word Meenakari or M?n?k?r? is a compound word, combining two Persian words - m?n? and k?r?. M?n? is a feminine variation of the word m?n?, meaning paradise or heaven. K?r? means to do or place something onto something else. Together, Meenakari literally means placing paradise on an object. The process typically involves fusing coloured powder glass onto gold, silver, copper or white metal jewellery at temperatures ranging between 750 to 850 degrees Celsius. Today, necklaces, earrings, bangles, bracelets, and rings have exquisite Meenakari work on them. Meenakari necklaces are highly sought after for their value and beauty. From traditional designs to fusion designs, they reflect India’s rich heritage. Depending on the style, outfit and occasion, one can opt for a Meenakari collar necklace, Meenakari choker, Meenakari beaded necklace, Meenakari Kundan necklace, Meenakari pendant necklace or the ultimate Rani Haar.
Diving into the Design
Meenakari work is mostly done on the face of the necklace, with the back left plain or decorated with a stamp. The art form of ornamenting the surface of a metal with enamels typically involves the following elements –
The use of motifs: Meenakari jewellery, including Meenakari necklaces, is a fusion of styles with elements borrowed from Persian, Islamic, European, and Indian cultures. Meenakari necklace designs depict a wide range of motifs. Inspired by the Mughal flora and fauna is the famous phool-patti design. Other motifs are parrots, peacocks, fish, elephants, horses and paisley.
A metal base: Silver is the most commonly used metal for Meenakari necklaces, as it easily withholds the melted enamel. Gold too has been used traditionally for Meenakari necklaces but is far more expensive than base metals like silver and copper. Nowadays, more affordable Meenakari necklaces are made from a white metal base.
Common colours: Enamel colors are manufactured in Amritsar, Punjab or imported from Germany and France. They are actually metal oxides mixed with a dash of powdered glass. A Meenakari necklace may consist of a single colour (Ek Rang Khula) or a combination of five colours (Panch Rangi Meena) in green, blood red, pearl white, light blue and dark blue with vivid hues of gold and silver.
Fine wires: An enameller or meenakar creates outlines and partitions in the necklace or pendant design with thin gold and silver wires. These wires help to contain the colours, allowing them to remain separate every time the piece is re-fired.
Tools: Since a Meenakari necklace is hand-crafted, the Meenakars use specific tools to get a fine finish on every necklace, choker and pendant. These include - the etching salai, mortar and pestle, the application Kalam/Taqva, forceps, scrubbing brush and sanding agate.
Firing and finishing: Most Meenakari necklaces are fired more than once. Depending on the combination of colours, the Meenakari process may require multiple firings. Once the enamel is set the necklace is polished for a smooth and glossy finish.
Occasions
Meenakari necklaces have cultural and historical significance. Their lively colours, intricate designs, and religious symbols have fascinated women for centuries. Designer gold Meenakari necklaces are highly cherished and passed down through generations. A beautiful Meenakari necklace is versatile and fitting for weddings, festivals, and other cultural and social events. All you need to know is how to style a Meenakari necklace with aplomb.
Meenakari necklaces are a favourite at Indian weddings. From the bride to the bride's family and even wedding guests, women love to exhibit their heirloom Meenakari necklaces. The exquisite designs look smashing and stylish with traditional Indian attire. A gold Meenakari necklace is also a status symbol and heirloom piece. However, these days, Meenakari necklaces are also available in imitation.
Indian women frequently wear Meenakari necklaces at festivals as a statement of wealth and prestige. Their traditional Indian motifs like peacocks, flowers, and paisleys, embrace the richness of Indian culture. Be it Diwali or Dussehra, Onam or Vishu, women wear Meenakari necklaces to celebrate spirituality and devotion.
Women also wear Meenakari pendants and necklaces to religious ceremonies as it is considered a sacred art form. Made from gold, embedded with precious stones, having religious motifs, they are the perfect fit for a religious ceremony. From attending an Upanayana (the sacred thread ceremony) to a Gauri Pooja (traditional Tamil wedding ceremony), women wear Meenakari pendants and necklaces at religious ceremonies.
For cultural events, a traditional Meenakari pendant can be the right choice. Women in India wear Meenakari necklaces and pendants to attend a regional dance performance, watch a Sarod recital, or participate in a temple prayer congregation.
Indian women wear Meenakari necklaces and pendants to almost every social party and celebration. Whether it is a birthday party, an anniversary party or just a get-together, they love to dress up. A thin layered necklace or a traditional Meenakari pendant can complete the partywear look.
Today, the younger generation is wearing Meenakari necklaces and pendants to embrace tradition with a touch of modern flair. They pair them with kurtis and casuals to look like fashion divas. They also contrast a traditional Meenakari necklace with a Western dress for a fusion look suitable for an office party or dinner date.
How to Style a Meenakari Necklaces
A Meenakari necklace looks good with almost any outfit. But since it has bright colours and intricate designs, it is necessary to know how to style a Meenakari necklace. To begin with, choose the right outfit. A Meenakari necklace pairs well with both Indian and Western wear. You can wear a Meenakari rani haar with a heavily embroidered ghagra choli or a striking Meenakari choker with an off-shoulder solid-coloured evening dress.
While wearing a Meenakari necklace, ensure the colours complement your dress. If you are wearing a Panch Rangi Meenakari collar necklace or a Panch Rangi Meenakari pendant necklace, ensure that the colours of your outfit complement the colours in the necklace. On the other hand, if you are wearing a saree or salwar suit that is bright and beautiful, choose an Ek Rang Khula Meenakari beaded necklace in a similar hue.
Also, while wearing a Meenakari necklace, remember to balance the other jewellery. Heavy matching earrings or a bracelet look good if dressing for a special occasion or celebrating a festival. Accessorise with caution and class. Besides tailoring your look to complement the outfit, you can style it to suit the occasion. For a formal event, your Meenakari choker can be the single statement piece. On the other hand, if you are attending weddings, award functions or other grand events, you can opt for a colourful Meenakari collar necklace to go with a single-tone pure silk saree.
Depending on the look you want to create, layer different styles of Meenakari necklaces. Combine different lengths of Meenakari necklaces for a personalised glam style. While layering different Meenakari necklaces, pay attention to the colours and motifs. Also, it is better to select necklaces with similar hues and motifs.
Another factor to consider when styling a Meenakari necklace is your hairstyle. To show off a Meenakari necklace, style your hair in an upsweep bun or a braid. That way, the entire focus will be on the neck. Similarly, keep the make-up simple with neutral tones. Don’t use very bright make-up as it may overpower the necklace or clash with its colours. If needed, get a professional stylist to create the best look.
Lastly, when styling a Meenakari necklace, choose outfits with the right neckline, material, and colour. For example, a Meenakari choker would stand out when paired with a low-neck choli, a silk saree, or a rani pink salwar suit. The necklace has to be the focal point of your look.
Whatever the occasion, the attire, or the style, a Meenakari necklace is a timeless piece of jewellery. Deep-rooted in our culture, Meenakari necklaces will never go out of trend. They are versatile, available in various colours, and can be styled for any look, from bridal wear to daily wear. All you need is a little knowledge and confidence to look stunning in a traditional Meenakari necklace.
Image Credits
K.M Choksi Jewellers | Glimour | Onkar | Pinterest | Mayuraj | The Jewel Project | Etsy | Nameera by Farooq | Jewellery by Mash