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Countries worldwide, from Italy to New Zealand, have incorporated enamelling techniques into modern jewellery. Even Indian nouveau art jewellery designers have made invigorating efforts to explore modern Meenakari designs. The fusion of contemporary and traditional designs has become a big part of Indian bridal fashion. Ornate Meenakari bangles have carved a niche for themselves, raising the wearer’s fashion quotient. Popular in Rajasthan and Gujarat, Meenakari bangles showcase a variety of motifs and colours. Available in different metals like gold, silver, brass and alloy, these bangles cater to beauty and affordability. A Meenakari Kada (single-piece or open-ended) has become a fashion feature. Depending on whether it is a thin kada or a heavy kada, it can be worn daily or on special occasions. Brides and newlyweds enjoy wearing wedding churas and traditional Jodhpuri bangles decorated with intricate Meenakari work. The history of Meenakari finds its genesis in Persia. Persian art and culture bloomed during the four centuries of the Parthian and Sasanian Empires. During this golden period, artisans discovered the fine art of hand painting metal surfaces and ceramic tiles with enamel, which they named Meenakari. The name Meenakari or M?n?k?r? can be split into two Persian words - m?n? and k?r?. M?n? is a feminine variation of the word m?n?, meaning paradise or the azure colour of heaven, while K?r? means to do work on an object. Together, Meenakari means to affix or apply paradise to something. Thus, Meenakari is the art of decorating or enamelling a metal surface by fusing minerals and treated substances. Overthrown by the Arab Rashidun Caliphate, the golden period ended in 651 CE. Meenakari art form, too, went underground until it once again resurfaced in Safavid Iran around the 15th century. Enamels were applied to tiles, bathtubs, refrigerators, armchairs, serving dishes, containers, vases, frames, and other display ornaments. In the 16th century, the Mongols travelling the Silk Route introduced Meenakari art to the Mughal Empire. The Mughal Emperor Akbar was so fascinated by this unique art form that he commissioned the artists to decorate his palace walls, pillars, ceilings and throne with intricate Meenakari work. This colourful enamel work soon found its way to the Queen's jewels. But it wasn’t until Raja Man Singh of Mewar, a nobleman and a military commander of the Mughal Empire who wore it for his portraits and Darbar ceremonies, that it first gained attention. With the growing demand for Meenakari bangles, necklaces, earrings, bajubands, and buttons, Raja Man Singh invited five Meenakars from the Mughal palace in Lahore to establish their trade in Jaipur. The markets of Jaipur were a hive of activity in the sixteenth century and have continued to grow since then. Today, Meenakari bangles of Jaipur have established themselves, both in domestic and international markets.
A Meenakari bangle is a versatile piece of jewellery. From a priceless gold heirloom bangle to an artificial first copy, Meenakari bangles are available for everyone. While traditionally, Meenakari bangles were made of gold, silver, and copper and embellished with precious and semi-precious stones, today, they are also available in imitation, making Meenakari jewellery accessible to a wider audience.
Meenakari bangle designs draw inspiration from Mughal and Rajput ornamentation. There are different types of Meenakari bangles. Depending on the colours, the motifs, and the style, every bangle has its symbolism and story. Meenakari bangles have different colour themes. The Ek Rang Khula Meena is a single-coloured Meena bangle, while a Panch Rang Meena has five different enamel colours. There is also the Gulabi Meena, which uses transparent colours outlined by an opaque rose pink. Previously, powdered semi-precious coloured stones were used for the preparation of enamel. However, in recent times, chemicals, including ferrous salts, cobalt oxide, copper salts, and other salts, have been used to achieve the exact colour of the enamel.
Motifs on Meenakari bangles have symbolic meaning. Inspired by Mughal architecture, these traditional motifs of flora fauna, paisley, animals, and birds continue to awe connoisseurs of beauty and luxury. Typical symbols of kamal phool, shiru pan, keri, pankh, chidi, koyali, nim patti, tikoyali mindi, and lily flower symbolise everything from fertility to freedom and hope to abundance.
Whatever the colour or motif, the Meenakari bangle can be an open wrist cuff, a hinged bangle, or a closed bangle. The Meenakari pipe bangle has enamel on thin metal pipes of gold, silver, or imitation alloy. It is good to stack alongside broader bangles. The Meenakari Pacheli bangle features a royal design and has Meenakari work with precious/ or semi-precious stones. Kundan Polki Meenakari bangles are set in gold or other metals and are studded with Kundan Polki. Meenakari kada is a heavy bangle that is single-piece or openable.
Besides the colour, motifs, and style, some other distinguishing features or elements distinguish a Meenakari bangle from other bangles. Meenakari bangles are traditionally made from gold, silver, or copper. They involve engraving, enamelling, and fine detailing. They may also contain a gold or silver foil backing. Lastly, they may incorporate glass gemstones or precious/semi-precious gemstones.
Weddings are the perfect occasion to wear Meenakari bangles. In North Indian weddings, Meenakari bangles are a bride’s favourite as they amp up the bridal attire. Also, other family members and friends attending weddings love wearing Meenakari bangles, as they add a touch of traditional elegance. Indian festivals also give you the perfect opportunity to wear heavy Meenakari bangles. Earlier, North Indian women wore Meenakari bangles at festivals like Diwali, but today, women across India wear them on Eid, Dussehra, Ganesh Chaturthi, Onam, etc.
Meenakari bangles can be the preferred accessory for a dancer performing Kathak or Odissi dance. They are also suitable for a housewarming party, family celebration, religious ceremony, or community get-together. An antique Meenakari bangle worn at cultural events and functions can make heads turn.
Meenakari bangles look good with everyday fusion wear and traditional attires like the saree, lehenga, and salwar kameez. When styled correctly, they can lend a traditional or contemporary look. Meenakari bangles are also a great gift idea for your wife or daughter.
If styled properly, a Meenakari bangle can help you achieve the perfect traditional or contemporary look. Here are some tips on how best to style a Meenakari bangle. The first thing to do is match the bangle with the attire. The colours on the Meenakari bangle must match or contrast the colours of your dress. For example, if you're wearing a vibrant red silk saree, opt for red and gold Meenakari bangles or contrast it with a rich green Meenakari Kada with a touch of red.
Next, mix and match thin, broad, solid or multi-coloured bangles to create your unique style. If you are young and want to stand out, go for fun styling by mixing different types of Meenakari bangles. Also, it is important to synchronise a Meenakari bangle with a necklace, earrings, and other pieces of jewellery while styling it. When pairing Meenakari bangles with other Meenakari necklaces, earrings, and Maang tikkas, ensure all the pieces are in the same family of colours, motifs, and metals to complement each other.
Furthermore, when styling Meenakari bangles, it is essential to pay close attention to the kind of occasion. For instance, when dressing up for a wedding, you can wear a heavy heirloom kada or layer multiple Meenakari bangles for a striking look. On the other hand, for a casual event, like a birthday party or a theatre outing, opt for thin Meenakari bangles to give a minimalistic look. If you're wearing a colourful Meenakari Kada with a solid-coloured Western dress, try to keep simpler jewellery pieces elsewhere or skip them altogether. Let the focus be on one statement piece. To get the best fusion look, go minimalistic.
To conclude, there is no one rule for styling a Meenakari bangle. All you need is some imagination and experimenting to get it right. Meenakari bangles are the perfect pick for reflecting your appreciation for culture and craftsmanship! When exploring ways to style Meenakari bangles, it's helpful to understand the broader spectrum of traditional Indian jewellery. Each piece carries its own charm and complements various looks and occasions seamlessly.
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