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Kundan Rings
One of the oldest jewellery crafts in India, Kundan jewellery has now acquired a vogue status. Whether creating a Sabyasachi look or walking the ramp at the Indian International Jewellery Week, no look is complete without the quintessential Kundan ring. The royal Kundan ring presents a modern-day relationship between bridal couture and contemporary glamour. It is the perfect blend of tradition, confidence and grace. The history and origin of Kundan jewellery date back to the royal courts of Rajasthan when royal jewellers discovered the art of setting gemstones with the purest form of 24K gold. The word Kundan is derived from the Sanskrit word Kundana, meaning pure gold. It is a Kundan jewellery making process in which a Kundansaz places uncut gemstones like diamonds, rubies, emeralds and sapphires into a pure gold foil framework to secure them without prongs or claws. Ushering cultural renaissance, the art form spread from Jaipur to Delhi and Hyderabad. Different types of Kundan jewellery such as Kundan rings, earrings, bangles, and necklaces soon became the favourites of the Begums in Mughal courts. As the Mughal Empire laid the foundation of a national culture where arts and architecture prospered, Kundan jewellery became a symbol of luxury, power, and prestige. It reached its peak between 1526 and 1761. Under British rule, as Indian culture faced new challenges and adjustments, the art form slowed down. But later, during post-independent India, Kundan jewellery resurfaced to reinterpret Indian traditions. Since then, it has evolved and established itself as a part of Indian culture. The creation of every Kundan ring follows a step-by-step process, starting by arranging the uncut and irregular gemstones into a design. Once the ring design is final, the artisan prepares the frame or base from 22-karat gold along with 24-karat pure gold foil. The base is then engraved and prepared with motif patterns or filigree work. In the next stage, the Kundansaz carefully sets each gemstone into the framework with the gold foil using lac, a natural resin that acts as a bonding agent in the absence of prongs. After this, the Kundan ring goes to a Meenakar to enamel the motif and filigree patterns. This process is called Meenakari. Once the enamelling or Meenakari work is complete, the Kundansaz finishes the ring by filling any remaining gaps with lac and polishing it. Handcrafting a Kundan ring can take up to a month, depending on the fine detailing of the ring. For centuries, generations of Kundansaz have retained the traditional essence of crafting a Kundan ring. Kundan rings, earrings, bangles, and necklaces are now manufactured in Jaipur, Ahmedabad, Punjab, Hyderabad, and Bilaspur. Over the years, with changing trends, increased popularity, and growing demand, Kundan rings have evolved to modern-day fashion sensibilities. The designs have become more contemporary. There is also a wide choice of metals and materials that make them more accessible to every Kundan jewellery lover.
Diving into the Design
India has a rich cultural and artistic landscape. Kundan rings have reinvented themselves with an artisanal flair to nourish the soul of every modern Indian woman. While historically, Kundan rings worn by royalty typically featured precious types of kundan stones set in gold, they are now crafted out of other materials, too. With the increasing prices of gold, Kundansazs, are now making the base of the Kundan rings from other metals like silver, copper, brass and alloys. Also, instead of 24-karat gold foil, they place coloured tin foil under the stones. The use of these metals is one of the factors that has contributed to making a Kundan ring more affordable to a larger populace in India and overseas.
Along with metals, the other material that has changed is the gemstones. In the 1950s to 70s, Kundan rings were still made from pure gold and set with precious stones. But, by the late 1900s, with increasing demand for affordable Kundan rings, the trend shifted to imitation Kundan jewellery. Instead of precious gems like diamonds, emeralds, rubies and sapphires, Kundan rings use corals and semi-precious stones like topaz, amethysts and moonstones. They also use glass, faux gemstones and synthetic stones in the same colours to imitate natural stones.
Further, the rings are not one hundred percent handmade. After decades, though the process remains almost unchanged, Kundan artists are using casting machines and some automated processes to increase production and reduce wastage. These allow for the mass production of Kundan rings at better prices.
Also, to some extent, there is a difference in the design of motifs used in traditional handcrafted Kundan and contemporary Kundan rings. Traditional Kundan rings had floral designs. They were also more intricate and enamelled using the traditional red and green colours. Now, modern Kundan rings have geometric patterns, paisleys, animals, birds, and celestial designs incorporated in them. The enamel colours also use chemicals like ferrous salts, cobalt oxide, and copper salts instead of powder made from crushed coloured glass or gemstones.
Though most of the Kundan process remains unchanged, as seen above, the key elements that feature in every Kundan ring are – the base metal, the embedded stones, Meenakari work, and motif patterns.
Occasions
A Kundan ring stands as a testament to India's rich cultural heritage. Its meticulous artistry and enduring symbolism make it the perfect piece to own. With a diverse range of Kundan rings, you can elevate your look for any occasion. This handcrafted, enamelled, and embellished jewel used to celebrate occasions, festivals, and personal milestones remains a timeless symbol of beauty and tradition.
Modern Indian brides are opting for Kundan rings, earrings, bangles and necklaces to add a touch of grandeur to their bridal ensemble. Often, family members, relatives and friends attending Indian weddings wear Kundan rings. Whether matched with bracelets and necklaces or worn as a single statement piece, they look dressy on Indian traditional and fusion wear.
Women also love to wear their heirloom Kundan ring during festivals. Dressing up in traditional Indian jewellery at festivals like Diwali and Holi showcases affluence. Furthermore, in Hindu culture, a gold and diamond Kundan ring is considered auspicious. However, today, women wear imitation Kundan rings at festivals to celebrate Indian culture.
A Kundan ring is also worn during religious ceremonies and rituals to signify purity and spirituality. Women wear Kundan rings when visiting a temple, attending a katha, sitting for a Pooja, participating in a Satsang and much more. A pure gold Kundan ring is also offered as a donation to temple idols, as it signifies blind faith and devotion to the deity.
How to Style a Kundan Ring
Most Kundan rings are big and bold. So, the first rule to remember while wearing a Kundan ring is to keep it single. A Kundan ring is a style statement. So, wear one to match your outfit and other jewellery pieces. But if you still want to wear more than one ring on one hand or a couple on both hands, the best is to go monochrome. That way, they won't clash or take away attention from one another.
Another factor to pay attention to while styling Kundan rings is how you mix the gemstones. If you do not want a monochrome look, mix different-coloured gemstones but keep the metal the same, and preferably the one that compliments your skin tone. Most Kundan rings look good in gold or gold-plated.
Whichever Kundan ring you select, tune it with your bracelet or bangle. Then check if it blends with the other jewellery pieces that you are wearing. Also, coordinate with the colours of your outfit. Colourful Kundan rings look good if the outfit is solid, but if your outfit is too colourful, you can opt for a pearl Kundan ring.
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