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Kundan Earrings
An emblem of beauty throughout India, Kundan earrings have now walked the Oscars red carpet with Nicole Kidman. These earrings, rooted in the Mughal era, have survived over centuries to embody the rich cultural heritage of India. Their craftsmanship captures the essence of traditional and modern India. One of the oldest jewellery techniques, Kundan earrings, has a history behind them. Worn by idols of Gods and Goddesses and Maharajas and Maharanis, the origin of Kundan earrings goes back to the 3rd century BCE. According to scholars, Rajasthani craftsmen who made jewellery in the royal courts of Rajasthan and Gujarat invented the Kundan technique. Later, it flourished under the patronage of the Mughal Emperor, Akbar the Great. Between 1526 and 1858, it became a status symbol for nobility and aristocracy. Queens, Sultanas and other royal women started to wear Kundan earrings. Apart from the talismanic role, Kundan earrings embodied wealth and power. Royal women confined to their Zenana’s or women’s quarters continued wearing Kundan earrings, Kundan necklaces, and Kundan bangles to show off at prominent royal gatherings. Since then, traditional Kundan earrings have come a long way. By the mid-20th century, as aesthetics evolved and power shifted from the royal courts to a new urban India, Kundan jewellery gathered momentum. As Jaipur in Rajasthan continued to become the epicentre of Kundan jewellery, Kundan earrings found their place in bridal jewellery and beyond.
Diving into the Design
Kundan earrings are a fusion of Persian design and the indigenous skill of the Rajput craftsmen. They have evolved to the changing fashion trends of modern times. Though every earring is handcrafted using traditional techniques, they are now more affordable and accessible to urban markets in India and overseas.
Originally, Kundan earrings contained pure gold and precious stones. A Kundansaz arranges diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and sapphires of different sizes and shapes into a design mould. He then places the gems in their grooves, adding a paper-thin sheet of 24-karat gold (999 purity) to encase the diamonds/gemstones. Lastly, he surrounds each gemstone with a gold band or case to hold them in place. This core process remains the same even today. The only change is the materials used.
In Kundan earrings, motif designs have not undergone much change. Geometric shapes like polygons and closed curves or forms that resemble flowers, leaves and birds have remained the same. Specific illustrations with names like Kamal Phool, Shiru Pan, Keri, Pankh, Daudi Koyali, etc., help identify or describe a motif. Sometimes, motifs have religious symbols like Om. Every motif has a deep meaning. Besides adding aesthetic appeal, they bring good fortune and protect the wearer from evil.
Even today, the voluminous gold and diamond Kundan earrings hold a place of pride in heirloom jewellery. Modern designs have evolved to be less complex and minimalistic, but the Kundan earrings making process and motifs haven't changed. What has evolved is the type of materials used. Originally used in royal courts, Kundan earrings were made from pure gold.
Contemporary Kundan earrings use a variety of materials and metals. They incorporate silver, copper, brass or alloy metals to achieve different finishes and price points. Imitation Kundan earrings are available online and a quick sell-out during the wedding season or festivals. Also, the Kundan earring stones such as diamonds are replaced with colourful glass and rhinestones alongside the enamel to create contemporary designs.
While creative psychology and historical perspectives played a role in shaping modern-day Kundan earrings, few elements or features are peculiar to them. Firstly, every Kundan earring uses gold, silver, copper or alloy synthetic foil between the stone/glass and the metal base. The gemstone or glass receives natural light from above, as the entire lower half is buried in the metal. Next, the base in traditional Kundan earrings is 22k, 23k or 24k gold. Only contemporary earrings may use other metals like silver, brass or alloy.
Typically, Kundan earrings have grooves and a gold band to hold different stones together. They do not use prong settings. Original Kundan earrings feature precious gemstones like diamonds, rubies, emeralds, sapphires, pearls, and semi-precious stones like garnets and turquoise. Kundan earrings have Meenakari enamel applied to their metal surface, either on the inner or outer side. Kundan earrings typically have danglers or drops of gemstones or pearls attached to them. They add drama and dimension to the earring. The designs have push-backs for studs and hooks for jhoomkas to secure them to the earlobe.
Kundan earrings can be in three styles – Meenakari, Polki and Jadau. Meenakari Kundan has coloured enamel, Kundan polka earrings have uncut diamonds, and Kundan Jadau earrings have stones embedded on one face and Meenakari work on the other.
Occasions
Today, Kundan earrings are multi-purpose because they easily fit into every occasion, from weddings to events, festivals, celebrations and casual outings. Set with precious and semi-precious stones, the luxurious and regal earrings mirror the craftsmanship and techniques of ancient India.
Bridal Kundan earrings are exquisitely crafted. You can wear different types of Kundan jewellery such as a beautiful pair of multi-coloured Kundan jhumkas with a matching Kundan necklace on a light pearl lehenga or anarkali. The bride and other guests, too, can wear heirloom Kundan balis or jhumkas to a wedding.
Bollywood actresses and celebrities attending award functions, premiers, product launches and other events wear beautiful Kundan earrings. Pair up Kundan drop earrings with a silk saree and be the cynosure of all eyes.
Festivals are all about celebrations and traditions. Vibrant Kundan earrings add colour to your festive attire. Pair them with a simple Anarkali suit or a lehenga to create a festive look.
Whether you are attending a cocktail party, a birthday celebration or an office party, you can get the right look with different styles of Kundan earrings. From studs to balis and polki to pearl, strike the right balance between classic and contemporary with a wide range of Kundan earrings. Go for lightweight and smaller Jadau Kundan earrings, like stud earrings, to get an effortless look. Kundan earrings are cool, classy and perfect for casual outings.
How to style Kundan Earrings
Kundan earrings are trending across India owing to their beauty and symbolism. They go well with all Indian outfits like sarees, lehenga choli, salwar kameez, churidar kurtas, and Anakarli suits. If styled well, they even look dazzling in Indo-Western gowns. So, here are a few tips to get the right bridal look, festive look, party look, casual look, fusion look, and statement look.
Kundan earrings look great with a matching necklace, bracelet, bangles, maang tikka and nose ring. If you are the bride, select a complete Kundan set to complement the outfit. If you have a good stylist, you can mix and match your heirloom Kundan earrings with other contemporary pieces. Make sure that the colours, motifs, materials, and patterns align well with each other.
Festivals are the right time to take out those heirloom Kundan earrings from the jewellery box or bank locker. Since festivals celebrate culture, it is the perfect time to wear them. An heirloom kundan earring with polki diamonds symbolises cultural heritage and craftsmanship. Wear them with any outfit to enhance your traditional festive look.
When stepping out for a celebration, wear large dangling Kundan earrings. If you have a long and slim face, select Kundan chand balis in one colour or multi-colour, depending on the colour of your outfit. Not only are chandbalis in vogue, but they also go well with Indian and Western garments. Remember to make the Kundan bali earrings the focal point. Do not overpower them with too many other accessories.
If you want to create a casual look with a touch of tradition, opt for Kundan studs or delicate Kundan jhumkis. You can even coordinate them with a pendant or choker based on the neckline. Keep it simple, preferably with white or pearl Kundan. The right size and proportion of earrings will help you achieve a fun look without the traditional heavy appearance.
Another famously trending look is the fusion look. Kundan earrings look appropriate on a Western mini, off-shoulder, gown, pant-suit or even a designer half-saree. The right pair of Kundan earrings can give you a dramatic look. So, experiment with Kundan earrings in various styles, colours, lengths, finishes, and materials to create the right balance.
If you own a pair of statement Kundan earrings embellished with diamonds and other precious stones with fine enamelling, create a statement look with them. Especially if you are in the limelight and attending a function, focus on the earrings to make a statement by keeping the rest of the accessories minimal.
Among traditional Indian jewellery Kundan earrings have found fame. Kundan earrings have an alluring charm with an intriguing history and craftsmanship, connecting them to India’s rich culture and heritage. Their unique designs, precise patterns and intrinsic detailing make them versatile and easy to wear with any dress and to any occasion. Available in different colours and styles, they are the perfect accessory to draw people’s attention to you. Today, a gold and diamond Kundan earring is timeless and a priceless legacy. But, if you cannot afford them, there are many more affordable options. Wear your Kundan earrings to create your personal style.
Image Credits
Pinterest | The Peacock Magazine | Bridal Asia