Kundan Bracelets

A Kundan bracelet is a traditional Indian ornament that has been around for over 3500 years. The technique invented in the Rajasthani courts typically uses a wax core and 24-karat pure gold. Since the word Kundan comes from the Persian word Kun, which means highly refined gold, it denotes an age-old technique of setting precious stones into jade and other materials with tiny strips of pure gold. To date, every Kundan bracelet reflects this traditional art form, exquisite craftsmanship and timeless elegance. The origin and history of Kundan jewellery dates back to the 16th century. The technique was first developed by artisans crafting royal jewellery for Rajputs of Rajasthan. As the craft spread from Jaipur to Hyderabad, Mughal queens began to adorn themselves with the different Types of Kundan Jewellery such as Kundan bracelets, bangles, necklaces and earrings. From 1526 to 1857, during the Mughal eras of Emperor Akbar, Jahangir, Shah Jahan, and Bahadur Shah Zafar, maharanis and other nobility began to wear heavy Kundan bracelets as a symbol of wealth and power. The most significant empire known for its cultural and architectural achievements popularised the art of Kundan jewellery making. During that period, Kundan bracelets and other Kundan ornaments became so sought after that they carved a niche in India’s cultural heritage. The revival of Kundan jewellery began in post-independence India when cultural movements regained pace, creating a renewed interest in traditional jewellery making. The Kundan bracelet, with intricate patterns and vibrant colours, evolved and adapted to modern-day trends. Today,, Jaipur, Bikaner, Delhi, Varanasi, Hyderabad, and Kolkata have become important centres of Kundan manufacturing. Though the basic technique of setting gemstones in gold remains the same, modern-day Kundan bracelet designs have become more contemporary. Intricate traditional motifs of flowers, elephants, and peacocks have given way to simpler modern patterns. Also, the base metals have shifted from gold and silver to the more affordable and sustainable brass and white metal. Lighter shades and pastel-coloured bracelets have replaced the traditional red and green-coloured Kundan bracelets. Contrary to what many people think, Kundan is not the material but a process or technique of setting gemstones to create a stunning bracelet. Flexible or stiff, gold or gold-plated, complete metal or semi-beaded, gemstones or pearls, all these Kundan bracelets are made using the same process. It begins with finalising the design according to the flat and irregular-shaped gemstones. The craftsman then begins to make a ghat in 22-karat gold with individual pieces of 24-karat gold strips or gold foil moulded into the desired shape of the stones. This step is called gadhayi. Once the strips are moulded and the base framework is ready, the Kundansaz engraves the patterns and designs on the exterior surface. This engraving work is called khudayi. He then fills the framework of pre-made cups with lac or resin. Soon after, the Meenakar fills the carved designs on the surface (inner and at the back) with enamel. In the next stage, called jadayi, expensive and rare stones like polki diamonds, emeralds, sapphires, and rubies are set with wires or strips to hold them without soldering or welding. Here, the gemstone/glass is set by sandwiching a gold foil between the stone and the mounting framework and held in place solely by the pressure of the gold foil. Lastly, the bracelet is cleaned and polished. Depending on the complexity of the design, a gold Kundan bracelet can take one to three months to create.

How to style Kundan Bracelets

A Kundan bracelet can be worn with a traditional Indian outfit, Indian-fusion wear, or a Western dress. For a classic look, style your saree, lehenga, salwar kameez, or Anarkali with a Kundan bracelet. Depending on the occasion, you can wear your heavy heirloom piece or a gold-plated bracelet to add sparkle to your outfit. Elevate your style with a rich cuff bracelet and matching Kundan earrings and necklace to complete the look.

If you want to wear a Kundan bracelet on an Indo-Western outfit like a silk kurti with cigarette pants, opt for a Jadau Kundan bracelet. Match the bracelet with the colours of the kurti or contrast it for a more modern look. You can pair Kundan bracelets with Western wear. Consider the length of your sleeve when selecting a Kundan bracelet design. A broad Kundan bracelet looks good on a long-sleeved blouse, while a delicate bracelet flatters a sleeveless or short-sleeved dress. Add Kundan studs for a touch of glamour. You can also stack up or mix and match two or three bracelets for a more bohemian vibe.