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Shawls

Shawls

A shawl is a large piece of cloth worn by a man or woman around the shoulders or head to protect against the cold. It is a square or oblong woven or knitted fabric made of silk, cotton, or wool.

Tracing The History

Linen shawls were mainly used as garments in ancient Mesopotamia, Egypt, and the Indus Valley Civilization. The origin of shawls dates back to these early civilizations, where they were used for both functional and decorative purposes.  It was much later, during the 14th century, that affluent Persian men and women began to drape woven rectangles over their shoulders made from highly prized Kashmiri goat wool. Even the word shal was coined from the Persian word sal.

In the court of Mughal Emperor Akbar (1555 to 1605 AD), Kashmir shawls became a part of sophisticated male dressing. Slowly, Kashmir shawls spread to the northern Indian subcontinent, Central Asia, southern Europe, and North Africa. By the 18th and 19th centuries, these hand-woven shawls became extremely popular throughout Europe. Though silk and woolen shawls are being replaced by polyester, traditional shawls are cherished for their craftsmanship and versatility. This rich history of shawls continues to influence contemporary fashion trends.

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The Making of Shawls

The making of shawls can be divided into two main categories: machine-made and hand-made shawls. While they are distinct, both follow a few common steps. The first step is always designing. The design is either sketched or created using CAD software. Once the design is finalised, the yarn made from wool, silk, and polyester is dyed and ready for weaving. Then, the shawl is either hand-woven by expert artisans or made on modern looms like jacquard or rapier looms.

Once the weaving is complete, some shawls may undergo embroidery, beading, or tassel work. The shawl is then washed, brushed, and steamed for a better finish. Lastly, like any product, every shawl is checked for any defects in weaving, dyeing, etc. Once it passes quality control, it is ready to move out of the factory for sale. Hand-made or machine-made, both types of shawls are in high demand. 

Evolution and Adaptation

The evolution and adaptation of shawls reflect the changes in materials and methodology over centuries. In ancient Mesopotamia and Egypt, there is mention of a piece of cloth used to cover oneself. These pieces were commonly made from wool for winter days and linen from flax plants for summer days. Also, the use of shawls in India dates back to the Indus Valley Civilization. Only later, when the famous Pashminas were made using Changthangi goat wool, the Kashmiri shawl was born. Wearing shawls was also a part of the Roman, Greek, and Persian cultures. During the Medieval period and later colonisation, shawls became sought after throughout Europe. Since then, the simple shawl has become an essential accessory.

The Industrial Revolution and the fast pace of the 21st century brought technological advances and trends together. Shawls were no longer exclusively crafted using silk or wool but made from polyester and acrylic. Digital prints were introduced in shawl designs. Also, there is a growing emphasis on eco-friendly dyes, organic fibres, fair-trade practices, and sustainability. Shawls have walked the fashion ramps with designers reinterpreting traditional patterns. These shawls, with their enduring appeal, have adapted to today's functionality and aesthetic needs.

Occasions

A shawl is a versatile accessory to wear on different occasions. It is perfect for layering during the Spring and Fall seasons. You can wear a Pashmina shawl to formal events like wedding functions or cocktail dinners and at special occasions like birthdays, anniversaries, and family get-togethers.

You can wear a silk shawl to the temple or church. Likewise, you can drape a beautifully embroidered shawl to cultural festivals and auspicious celebrations.. The shawl will not only serve a practical purpose, but its embroidery reflects on the region's history.

Shawls are also a must-have during travel. Airports and long flights get chilly, and a lightweight shawl will keep you comfortable and warm without the hassle of carrying a sweater. Similarly, you can even take a light shawl on a day trip or shopping in the fall season. Lastly, a shawl can be a stylish addition to professional attire, offering a polished look in the office or at conferences. Wear one in black or a neutral colour, depending on your outfit. Whether lounging at home or running errands, choose the shawl and style it appropriately to enhance your look and feel good.

How to Style Shawl

A shawl is an accessory used for aesthetic purposes or to keep one warm. How you style it will depend on your requirements. However, here are a few ways you can style a shawl. Firstly, there is the classic drape where the shawl is rested on both shoulders with the ends in the front to create a chic, asymmetrical look. If not draped over both shoulders, you can have a one-shoulder drape. For a formal and hands-free look, you can even secure the draped shawl with a belt, calling it the belted shawl. Alternatively, drape the shawl over your shoulders and secure a brooch at the front to create a cape style. You can even opt for a front tie by tying the ends together at the front.

In cold winters, women often wrap the shawl around the shoulders, crossing the ends over the chest and letting them hang down the back. This cosy style is known as shawl wrap. Another similar way to style your shawl is the neck wrap, where the shawl is folded in half diagonally to create a triangle at the front of your neck with ends going around the neck to drape over the shoulders or hang in front. However, you wear your shawl, drape it to create a unique look appropriate for the place, occasion, and outfit. 

Image Credits

Pashima | Kcssshop