One of the earliest examples of footwear worn on the Indian subcontinent is a wood sandal dating to circa 200 BC. During the 3rd and 4th centuries in the Buddhist period, people wore strapped leather sandals, and kings wore ornamented sandals containing precious jewels. Cow, buffalo, goat, and sheep leather sandals protected their feet.

Much later, the Mojari became a part of the Mughal couture. According to history of Mojaris, during the war against the Afghans, a bhisti called Nizam saved Humayun, the second Mughal Emperor, from drowning in the Ganga. Emperor Humayun expressed his gratitude by crowning Nizam as King for a day. As Nizam invited his fellow bishts or leather workers to court, Emperor Humayun, impressed by their work, ordered footwear for the Mughal infantry. 

Then, around 1600, King Saleem Shah, Akbar’s successor and the fourth Mughal Emperor with his flair for luxury, made the Mojari a part of royal wardrobes. Decorated with gems and woven with gold-silver zari, the Mojari was for the Kings, queens, and nobility.

From Agra, the art spread to Jaipur and Jodhpur, which became a hub for crafting Mojaris for Maharajas, Maharanis, wealthy zamindars, and nawabs. By the early 19th century, the Nizams of Hyderabad and other nobility wore Mojaris with an extended curled toe. Today, despite the royal patronage long gone, from Rajasthan to Multan, the art of making Mojaris lives on.

First, the craftsmen clean the leather, dip it in water, and straighten it to even the thickness. Next, they cut out the leather to different sizes using a plastic farma. The upper, called the Panna, and two ankle pieces, called Chinkiya, are cut out. Then, the sole, called Tala, is cut out using three or four layers of leather.

The design is then either punched directly on the upper or a paan (heart-shaped leather) pasted in the front of the Mojari with embellishments. Once done, the panna, tala, and chinkiya are all stitched by hand or machines, and any excess leather is removed. The craftsmen do a final quality check, and the Mojari is ready for sale.

The Mojari has evolved with changing times. It originated in the Indian sub-continent during the Mughal rule as footwear for royalty and nobility. Today, these shoes embody an intricate art form and a rich cultural heritage. The meaning of Mojaris has expanded from being traditional footwear to a symbol of timeless elegance and craftsmanship. The designs have even evolved from traditional Mughal-inspired motifs to more contemporary designs.

Traditionally, Mojaris have fine-quality buffalo or camel hide. They use natural dyes and cotton or silk threads. They are embellished with real silver and gold zari and semi-precious stones. Modern-day Mojaris contain synthetic leather, silk, velvet, or canvas. 

They use chemical dyes and artificial stones. Some of them even have a lining of foam for cushioning. While traditional Mojaris contain intricate designs inspired by Mughal motifs and architecture, contemporary Mojaris are minimalist and eclectic, fitting seamlessly into urban tastes.

Today, several fashion designers customise Mojaris for bridal collections and international runways. Mojaris' evolution and adaptation ensure their continued relevance in contemporary fashion.